Camellias are willing to give their lives to camellias. It's important to share some skills of camellias.

At present, there are clusters of camellia buds, a single bud is a little larger than soybeans, and the tops of some strong branches often accumulate more than two buds. Camellias and peonies have the same habit of giving up their lives and flowers. Too many flowers will consume a lot of nutrients and weaken the tree potential. At the same time, the flowering is not large and standard, and it is not easy to show the flower characteristics of this variety. It is better planted on the ground, especially in pots, and the sprouting of fallen leaves is slow and weak after flowering. Therefore, during this period of time, it is necessary to sparse the buds in time, which can not only bloom huge, but also maintain the tree momentum.

The common practice of thinning buds is to break off the redundant buds directly. I don't know if you have noticed that the base of the buds is close to the base of the leaf buds. After breaking the buds, it will leave a large wound on the base of the buds, which will make the buds lose water at the base and cause the buds to atrophy or even wither. even if it does not dry up to spring germination is relatively weak, so it is necessary to improve the method of bud thinning.

Two buds and one bud, very tight.

After years of exploration and practice, the "bud cutting method" can be adopted to achieve the effect of thinning buds without harming leaf buds. The specific method is as follows: when the buds are about the size of a soybean grain (actually, the earlier the better, but too small to operate), cut off the waist of the excess buds with sharp scissors, and the buds form a large wound, which will evaporate the water from the rest of the buds, and the rest will naturally wither and fall off after a week. At this time, the joint with the leaf bud has also formed a dry scar knot, which does not affect the development of the leaf bud at all. When cutting buds, it should be noted that the amount of cutting should not be less than half, that is, the above mentioned buds below the waist, the purpose is to destroy the pistil, if the pistil is not injured this half of the bud will continue to develop and grow.

The following is a demonstration with a picture, look at the text may not understand, then look at the picture!

Yesterday afternoon, it was almost dark the day after work, only one was cut, hit harder, leaving a small half of it to dry up. The inner one should have been removed, but the outer bud was removed because it was bought with a little damage. As shown above

Taken under Yuba tonight, the cut has turned yellowish brown after a day, but it will not fall off. It has been raining in the past few days, the air humidity is high, and the shedding time is a little longer.

These buds hidden in the middle have no effect even if they come out, so they should be cut off. It can really blossom, and there are a lot of short and weak buds in the lower part. I don't want it, but I really don't want to stay less.

Nine buds were cut off, which may be due to oxidation and the cut changed color after a while. Look at the number of petals and anstamens should be what the flower vendor called "Rocks of Eighteen Scholars".

It's good to leave seven big buds in the whole plant. Looking intently, the top of the summer shoot also gave birth to small buds.

The flowers and leaves at the top of summer shoots are symbiotic.

In fact, the best time to sparse buds is when the buds are as big as dried soybeans, and they should be cut off as big as the buds on the 50th floor, so that the buds left behind can get sufficient nutrients. In fact, it is a little late to cut the buds in front. The buds cut on the 7th of this month are almost all cloudy and rainy days. Today, half of the buds have dried up.

Half of the falling bud.

The shedding site has formed a scab and has no effect on the leaf bud.

The current layout of buds. The tree has sprouted summer shoots, so the spring shoots look low, the buds on the spring shoots are concentrated in the middle of the tree, and there are small buds at the top of the summer shoots.

When I bought it back, it was crooked in the basin, and it was estimated that it had been crooked for a long time, so the summer top caused the whole tree to be a little crooked, and when I came back, the soil was too stiff, so I removed 2/3 of the original soil and put it back on the basin. After the beginning of spring, I pruned and reissued new buds and then returned to a positive shape.

Personally, in order to maintain the normal growth of the plant and the variety characteristics of the flowers, one branch with four or five leaves or more can be left in the pot, and the others can not be left behind. for example, if there are too few buds in the whole plant, you can also leave a flower bud on a relatively weak branch, but you really can't be greedy for more, otherwise it will do great harm to the growth of the plant in the coming year. What is planted on the ground can be kept as much as possible.