Change the basin to prevent root injury

The purpose of changing pots is usually considered to be to replace plants without nutrients and add new plants with sufficient nutrients to make the leaves of Cymbidium grow roots, blossom and give off fragrance. For this, predecessors also have an incisive summary of "new soil hair root, old soil hair leaf".

In the past, orchids were planted in larger pots. Three or five seedlings of orchid "one pot is full, but not six or seven years." now people use smaller pots to plant orchids, and many people use 15*20cm plastic pots to grow orchids. A few orchids grow in pots a year.

I raise orchids in the south balcony, the sun is high in summer, the sun can not be directed to the orchid basin in the balcony, coupled with shading net shade, so there is no problem of basin temperature too high, after autumn, the sun is low and softer, so remove the shading net, because often day shift, can not hang shading net at noon, the sun can direct orchid basin.

In direct sunlight, the black plastic basin heats up so fast that it feels hotter in less than 2 hours, so the problem comes.

If the basin body is larger, plant material heating needs a process, if the environmental humidity is not very high, it will slow down this process, but like 15*20cm plastic basin, the basin body is black, the heat absorption is fast, the volume is small and the temperature rises quickly, if the balcony is closed again to improve the humidity, the environmental temperature will also rise accordingly, not only will not slow down the heating process of the basin body, but will increase it unabated, so it will scald the root. This leads to the focal tip and black spots on the leaves.

As for the sun orchid, au Jinze pointed out in "Linghai Lanyan" that "the places are different, the basins are not baked for a long time, the orchids are different, and the leaves are not scorched at the end of the leaves for a long time." The elder of the district only pointed out the principles that should be followed in drying orchids, but did not say why. I think it has something to do with the excessive injury of roots and leaves.

As for how to prevent the scorched tip, the orchid master only points out that it is necessary to raise the root first, and only then can the leaf be cultivated well.

I want to prevent the focal point, like the prevention of diseases and insect pests, give priority to prevention, do not wait for the emergence of problems before treatment. It is the same with anti-injury root, anti-scorch tip and anti-injury leaf.

When changing the basin, in addition to changing the planting material, when replanting orchid, we should also pay attention to prevent the orchid root from sticking to the basin wall. If the root is too long, my way is not to cut it short (that may lead to bacterial damage). Just put the root in the basin and rotate slowly to make it semi-deep.

In addition, since the black basin absorbs heat and heats up quickly, is it better to find a way to change it to a light-colored basin?