MySheen

Control of Orchid Base Rot and White Silk Disease

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, Control of Orchid Base Rot and White Silk Disease

With the continuous improvement of people's living standards, as an elegant leisure activity of cultivating and appreciating orchids, it is more and more loved by urban residents. However, in the process of orchid cultivation, due to the different environmental conditions and cultivation experience of different people, the success and failure of orchid cultivation are also different. And almost every orchid farmer will inevitably encounter the number one "killer" of orchids-white silk disease. As a result, there are many topics about white silk disease among the people who raise orchids. This article is an attempt to reveal the causes of white silk disease.

1. The causes of Pap Shao disease:

From May to August every year, most parts of China have entered the high temperature and rainy season. At this time, it is also the season for orchids to sprout and grow. The orchid cultivation environment of many orchid farmers is not satisfactory, bluegrass is limited to the pot scion, and the orchid root can not stretch as much as possible, which has limited the growth of bluegrass. If there is insufficient shading, poor drainage and poor ventilation, bluegrass will be extremely vulnerable to diseases and insects. In order to prevent and control diseases and insects, people often spray orchid plants with various drugs and fertilizers, no matter whether they are used properly or not, there are different degrees of medicine and fertilizer deposited in the leaf sheath and orchid heart. And these medicines and fertilizers are impregnated in the delicate leaf base for a long time, which is very easy to damage the leaf stem, especially the immature new seedlings. If you add poor drainage, poor ventilation, medicine and fertilizer trapped in the leaf sheath mixed with irrigated water, coupled with the effect of high temperature, there will be a chemical reaction in the leaf sheath, burning the leaf base, causing the orchid plant to break to death, that is, bluegrass-based rot. If the basic rot is not detected in time, the rotten plants will give rise to a virus that can spread rapidly, that is, white silk pathogen, which is the cause of orchid white silk disease.

Second, the prevention of white silk disease should give priority to:

Now we know the cause of white silk disease, because the water in the sheath leaves, and caused by high temperature steaming, we can effectively prevent the occurrence of white silk disease.

Shallow planting is the first factor in the prevention and control of white silk disease. Most people who raise orchids know that deep planting is easy to blossom. In order to obtain more strong seedlings, we can add plant materials to bluegrass after autumn, and after the new buds are unearthed, remove part of the plant materials to make the false bulbs semi-exposed or completely exposed on the soil surface, so that it is not easy to accumulate water in the leaf sheath, or there is stagnant water between them, and it is easier to evaporate, which can not only effectively prevent the occurrence of bluegrass base rot and white silk disease, but also get more strong new seedlings, and it is easy to see flowers.

So, is there a corresponding standard for deep or shallow planting?

The so-called: the form is indeterminate. Deep or shallow planting should also be different according to the environment and substrate of orchid cultivation.

When orchids are raised on the ground, the air humidity is higher, the temperature is lower, and the light is softer. When planting general varieties of orchids, false bulbs can be slightly exposed on the soil surface. If the emergence of winter bamboo shoots of bluegrass, it is appropriate to shallow planting. In other words, the false bulb should sit on the table, and then use water moss or grade sawdust to cover the scales so as not to dehydrate them. If the balcony or roof raise orchid, because the environment is extremely bad, the air humidity is low, the light is too strong, the dry wind is too big, Rain Water is also fierce, if you add the poor water permeability of the matrix, it is extremely easy to accumulate soiled basin soil due to Rain Water and watering, and if you encounter high temperature or sun exposure again, it is very easy to cause basic rot, which in turn leads to the spread of white silk disease. Therefore, those who raise orchids on balconies or roofs should try their best to avoid direct sunlight on orchid plants, avoid Rain Water rushing orchid plants, and in May to September, watering should be carried out after 8 pm as far as possible. Therefore, the heat in the orchid basin has gradually dissipated, and watering it once is tantamount to taking a shower for the orchid. And after a night of dripping, there is basically no water in the orchid basin, and when the temperature gets higher the next day, it will not cause local thermal transpiration due to excessive wet matrix and high temperature fumigation, but burn orchid roots and new seedlings, resulting in basic rot and white silk disease.

However, how to deal with the basic rot and white silk disease that have already occurred?

According to my own experience, the author thinks: first, remove the pot quickly, cut off the diseased part with a sharp knife, break or remove the leaf nail of the uninfected plant, and rinse clean with running water, especially at the leaf nail and leaf base seam, we should pay attention to washing. After washing, invert the orchid plant to control the water, be sure to make the leaf beetles, leaf seams filled with water to cool and dry. Then, choose one of the germicidal powders such as Ke, Chlorothalonil, carbendazim, Topurazine, etc., and use dry powder to wake up the pseudobulbs to make sure that the powder fully wraps the pseudobulbs. After that, it can be planted with pure plant material (clean river sand is better). Be sure to make the false bulb float on it, and do not water it immediately, but wait three to five days before watering. In this way, most of the varieties can be preserved. In the same year or the next year, the new orchid plant can be rejuvenated in two to three years. After the rejuvenation of the orchid plant, the new seedling should be separated from the original diseased plant, and the wound should be separated with germicidal powder, and then planted with new plant material. The above is purely for the author's opinion, only for Lanyou reference.

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