How to raise wasps

Everyone knows that wasps are fierce and poisonous and very difficult to mess with, so they should make a detour. But some people not only did not hide, but also planted wasps, and gained great benefits from it. So, do you know how to keep wasps?

First, how to raise wasps

1. Main feeding equipment

(1) Bee cage. Made of wood or made of iron gauze, the volume is about 0.03 to 0.04 cubic meters, so that it has full room for movement.

(2) Bee shed. The size depends on the number of beehives harvested. Large glass greenhouses, large factories or special beekeeping sheds can be used. The beehive uses iron and wood as support and iron window screen as purse seine, with a general area of about 100 square meters and a height of 2m. Corn, soybeans, cotton and other crops that are easy to access insects are planted in the shed, and there is a screen door on one side of the shed. Small plates containing honey, fruit, melon peel and other fodder should be hung in the shed so that the bees can feed and move freely after they are put in.

(3) Beehive. It is made of wood, with 15~20cm on the side, and a cover and bottom made of thin wood. The cover is equipped with hooks, a screen window is hung around it, and a trap door is left on one side.

Fodder fruits, such as ripe apples, peaches, vegetables with more moisture, molasses, melon peels, etc.

2. Feeding and management

(1) collecting. At the end of September and the beginning of October every year, wasps begin to break away from their old nests and migrate to suitable places for the winter, when it is the most appropriate time to collect wasps. At night, the insects are collected in the overwintering place of the bees and raised in the beehive. Each beehive is put into 300 to 500 heads, shaded by black cloth and placed in a dry, ventilated and undisturbed chamber to reduce activity and promote it to go into hibernation ahead of time. In order to avoid that the colony is not easy to find after leaving the nest, it can also be harvested on the original nest in the middle of September and placed in a cage or box, making use of the upward habit of the swarm bees to put ripe apples, peaches and water-rich green vegetables at the bottom of the cage. When the temperature is high at noon, bask in the sun for 3 to 4 hours, make it active and feed, postpone the dormancy period, not only replenish the nutrition, but also make it safe to survive the winter. Wasps are semi-hibernating insects, and the lower the temperature is, the tighter the clump is. When the temperature is higher than 7 ℃, the wasp begins to break up, and the survival rate after overwintering is mainly related to the quality of clumping. Therefore, during the overwintering period, the hugging condition should be checked frequently and once in the cage 10-15 days. If you find that the group is scattered, you should cool down in time and thicken the shading coat.

(2) feeding and management. In the first ten days of March of the second year, the temperature rose to more than 10 ℃, and the overwintering bees began to break up and move in the cage wall. At this time, we should immediately put in apples, molasses, sugar mixed bun and other feed for artificial feeding, feeding until the middle of April, the bees flutter their wings for a period of time before the bees can be released from the cage and return to nature to build their nests. Artificial assistance to build a nest is to build a beehive under natural conditions. When the temperature is constant at 13 ℃ in spring, the overwintering wasps begin to disperse and can move into the greenhouse at night, gently open the cage door or box cover, and the wasps will fly in the greenhouse the next day. When the temperature is constant above 17 ℃, bees begin to enter the stage of nesting and spawning, and should be observed at any time. When bees are flying and stopping on the roof and around the gauze net, the beehive should be hung around the shed in time, and the cage should be half-opened and fastened.

3. Pest control techniques.

There are many kinds of natural enemies that harm wasps, including insects, spiders, birds and mice, as well as diseases caused by pathogenic microorganisms. The most serious damage to the honeycomb is the yellow-tailed nest borer of the family Lepidoptera, whose adults lay eggs on the hive at night and hatch larvae after 4D. The larvae travel through the hive and bite the wasp larvae, resulting in the disintegration of the hive, and the nest borer likes to be active at night, while the wasp is active during the day and remains motionless at night, allowing the nest borer to lay its eggs on the hive without being moved. Once the nest borer invades the hive, it can kill a large number of wasps.