The latest course on planting techniques and methods of Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle, also known as honeysuckle, Shuanhua, Erhua, Erbaohua, is a perennial vine of Ninjuriaceae. The medicinal part is flower buds, mainly produced in Henan and Shandong, and distributed in most parts of the country, born in hills, valleys and forest edges. Honeysuckle has been famous for its extensive medicinal value since ancient times, its main efficacy is heat-clearing and detoxification, the main treatment of febrile disease, fever, blood dysentery, carbuncle and so on.

Growth habits of Flos Lonicerae

The growth and development process of Flos Lonicerae can be roughly divided into three stages: germination and leaf expansion stage, budding and flowering stage and growth stagnation period.

The main results are as follows: 1. The leaf bud germinates in late March and grows in the first ten days of April.

2. Budding and flowering period: budding begins in late May and blossoms after 15 days. The first stubble flowers from Lesser Fullness of Grain to Grain in Beard (late May to early June) account for 80% of the annual output. The second crop of flowers blossomed from late July to early August, accounting for 15% of the annual output. 20%. The bud is green first, then white, and opens at 4-5 p.m.

3. Growth stagnation period: the fruit will bear fruit after the second stubble flowers bloom, and the fruit will ripen in September. After Frosts Descent in late October, some leaves withered and entered the overwintering state.

Honeysuckle gradually produces more flowers after 3-5 years of planting, high yield period after 7-8 years, and gradually decline after 20 years, which needs to be renewed. Honeysuckle likes the sun and mild, humid environment, the suitable temperature for growth is 20-30 degrees. Cold-resistant, drought-resistant, lax soil requirements, acid, saline-alkali soil can grow.

Planting techniques of Flos Lonicerae

1. Land selection and preparation

When raising seedlings, choose sandy soil with loose soil, fertile soil and good drainage and places with convenient irrigation and water sources. After selecting the land, turn the soil more than 30 cm deep, break the clods, flatten and rake fine, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Then make a high border with a width of 1 or 3 meters to sow and raise seedlings or cutting seedlings. Planting land can be planted on barren slopes, land edges, ditches, sporadic plots in front and back of houses. First turn the land deeply, apply enough basic fertilizer, flatten and rake fine to make high beds or high ridges to plant.

2. Methods of reproduction

Mainly by cutting propagation, but also seed propagation and root pressing propagation. Cutting propagation can be divided into two methods: direct cutting and cutting seedlings.

① cutting period: it can be carried out in spring, summer, autumn and winter. It is appropriate to germinate before new buds germinate in spring and from early September to mid-October in autumn.

Selection and treatment of ② cuttings: it is appropriate to choose 1-2-year-old strong and full branches, cutting cuttings of about 30 cm, each with at least 3 nodes. Then, remove the lower leaves, leave the upper 2-4 leaves, cut the lower end near the node into a smooth slope, tie it into a small bundle every 50, quickly dip it in the lower slope with 500-fold indolebutyric acid solution for 5-10 seconds, dry it a little and cut it immediately.

③ direct cutting: in the whole planting ground, dig holes according to the row spacing of 150x150cm or 170cm, hole diameter and depth of 40cm, dig the bottom soil, and apply rotten stable compost or compost 5kg in each hole. Then, spread the cuttings evenly and insert 3-5 cuttings into each hole. The depth of penetration is 1-2-3 of the cuttings. Then fill the fine soil and press it tightly with your feet and pour water once to keep the soil moist. It can take root and sprout in about 1 month.

④ cutting seedlings: on the flat rake bed, draw lines according to the row spacing of 15-20 cm, and punch holes on the border surface with small wooden sticks or bamboo chopsticks every 3-5 cm. Then, insert the cutter 1-2-2-3 into the hole obliquely, press it tightly, and then water it once. If cutting at low temperature in early spring, plastic film bow shed should be built on the cutting bed to keep warm and moisturizing. It can take root and sprout in about half a month, and then remove the plastic film for seedling management. Those planted in spring are planted in the garden in the winter of the same year or in the spring of the second year. The seedlings raised by cutting in summer and autumn were transplanted in the following spring. A large number of nutritious seedlings were obtained by cutting in a short time.

3. Transplanting technology

It is carried out before germination in early spring or during dormancy in autumn and winter. On the whole planting ground, dig holes according to row spacing of 150 cm, plant spacing of 120 cm, width and depth of 30-40 cm, each hole with 5 kg of soil fertilizer and mix well with the subsoil. Then, one strong seedling was planted in each hole, and the fine soil was compacted and watered thoroughly. After survival, the creeping vine is formed into an erect dwarf shrub by shaping and pruning. Increase the branches and expand the crown, from one crop per year to 3-4 crops a year. The output can be greatly increased.

Field management of honeysuckle

1. Weeding by mid-ploughing: after transplanting, weeding 3-4 times a year. In the first year, new leaves sprouted in spring, the second in June, the third in July-August, and the fourth in late autumn and early winter. After weeding, the soil should be cultivated with the plant rhizosphere to facilitate overwintering. When ploughing, it should be shallow around the plant rhizosphere and deep in the distance, so as to avoid root injury, otherwise it will affect the root growth of the plant. After the third year, depending on the growth of weeds, the times of weeding in intertillage can be reduced appropriately.

2. Topdressing: topdressing should be carried out every year after germination in early spring and every time after picking flower buds. Apply rotten human and animal dung water or ammonium sulfate, urea and other nitrogen fertilizer in spring and summer, spread it in a shallow ditch beside the plant, and cover the soil with fertilizer; in winter, apply 5-10 kg of rotten stable manure or compost, 100 g of ammonium sulfate, 200 g of calcium superphosphate, and apply it in a ring-shaped ditch around the flower pier. After application, cover and cultivate the soil, 5 cm thick.

3. Shaping and pruning: one strong plant was left in each hole after transplanting, which was pruned and cultivated into an umbrella-shaped upright shrub. Shaping and pruning methods: within 1-2 years after planting, the main purpose is to cultivate an upright and sturdy trunk. When the height of the trunk is 30-40 cm, cut off the top slightly to promote the lateral bud to germinate into branches. After germination in the spring of the following year, 4-5 sturdy branches were left in the upper part of the trunk as the main branches, which were planted in two layers. In winter, 5-6 pairs of buds are retained in the primary branch from the main branch, and the upper part is cut off. After that, 6-7 pairs of buds were retained in the secondary branches from the primary branches, and the upper part was cut off. Then pick the young shoots of the strong line from the flower branches growing from the secondary branches. In general, the young branches with dense and short nodes and thin leaves germinated in the secondary branches or on the original old flower branches after spring are flower branches and should be retained. Through shaping and pruning, honeysuckle changed from the original winding growth to an umbrella-shaped shrub-shaped flower stump with sparse branches, uniform distribution, ventilation and light, stout and upright trunk.

Honeysuckle has the characteristics that new branches can develop into flower branches in the same year. Through the above pruning measures, it can promote more new branches and form more buds, so as to achieve the purpose of increasing production. Winter pruning is carried out every year after frosting to before freezing, and old branches, disease and insect branches, thin and weak branches, long branches that cross and disturb the shape of trees should also be cut off, so that nutrients are concentrated on the emergence of new branches and the formation of buds. After picking flowers in each crop, summer pruning is carried out at the same time. After each pruning, you should top up once. The steps for pruning are as follows:

① fixed stem: the same year in spring or the second year in autumn, when the branches are about 33 cm long. The trunk generally chooses upright, sturdy branches, cutting off the upper end of about 16 cm-27 cm from the ground, and the second step is to select lateral branches, leaving 3-5 sturdy branches with uniform distribution and no shade on the trunk, and cut off the slightly end of 2/3. After fixed dry pruning, 50 grams of urea and 100 grams of superphosphate were applied per pier, and weeding was often carried out.

② winter pruning: a winter pruning is carried out after the beginning of winter. The main purpose is to cut off the branches growing on the trunk and leave a small number of mother branches that can blossom next year.

4. Irrigation and drainage: during the flowering period, some dry weather or too much Rain Water will cause a large number of falling flowers, retting flowers, rupture of young flowers and so on. Therefore, it is necessary to do a good job in irrigation and drainage in time.