The latest course of cultivation techniques of bergamot

Bergamot is a tropical and subtropical plant, like warm, humid, sunny environment, not resistant to cold, frost and drought, shade, barren, waterlogging. There is plenty of rain. It is suitable to be cultivated in areas where there is no freezing in winter. The optimum growth temperature is 22-24 ℃, the overwintering temperature is above 5 ℃, the annual precipitation is 1000~1200mm, and the annual sunshine hours is 1200-1800h. It is suitable for growing in acid loam, sandy loam or clay loam with deep, loose and fertile soil, rich in humus and good drainage.

In Gaoyao City and Deqing County, the main producing areas of Guangdong Province, the average annual temperature is 22 ℃, the average temperature in January in the coldest month is 13.2 ℃, the extreme minimum temperature is-1 ℃, the average temperature in July is 28.6 ℃, the annual average precipitation is about 1600mm, and the annual sunshine hours are 1815 hours. In the well-drained and fertile paddy field, the soil is slightly acidic, grows well, and the yield is high and stable.

The breeding method of bergamot

Bergamot cutting, grafting, high-pressure propagation can be. The cutting time is from the last ten days of June to the first and middle of July, cutting branches from the robust mother plant as cuttings, which can sprout in about one month, germinate in two months, and can be planted after germination. You can also use long-branch cuttings, take 3-4-year-old strong branches, cut and grow 50cm as cuttings.

1. Cutting and planting

Cuttings preparation: 7-8-year-old mother trees should be selected before cutting, old and healthy branches with exuberant growth and free from diseases and insect pests should be cut off, leaves and top shoots should be cut off, cuttings with growing 17~20cm should be cut, the survival rate of cuttings is more than 90%, and the seedling growth is also very strong. No young tree branches or only long branches shall be used. Because this kind of branches are often not easy to bear fruit.

Soil preparation and cutting: it is best to choose the sandy soil with thicker soil in the seedling bed in order to collect seedlings in the future. After the land is selected, deep ploughing and raking is fine, and human and animal manure water is applied to form a high border 1.3m wide, with a width of about 30cm and a depth of about 20cm. The cuttings can be cut from February to March in spring and from August to September in autumn, and the cutting in autumn is the best. Autumn cuttings can grow roots in the same year, and grow rapidly after sprouting in the spring of the following year; when cutting, a horizontal trench is opened on the border, with a distance of 23cm to 27cm; the cuttings are inserted into the trench according to the plant spacing 15~17cm, and must not be cut down. About 12000-15000 cuttings are usually needed per mu. After the insertion, the soil is compacted so that a bud at the front shows the surface of the soil, and the dry soil should be drenched with water.

Seedling management: watering and irrigation at any time after insertion, and building a shed to cover the shade, Rain Water often has to do a good job of drainage. When the seedlings are high 7~10cm, remove the weak seedlings in clusters, leaving only one strong seedling in each plant. Weeding in time, topdressing light human and animal dung water or ammonium sulfate for 3 times, cultivation for one year can be transplant.

2. Grafting propagation

It takes place in spring and autumn. It is better to use citron or lemon as rootstock. Rootstocks are generally propagated by cutting or sowing. Grafting methods are as follows:

Depending on the grafting method: from August to early September, the rootstock selected stem diameter 2~3cm, well-developed root system, strong growth of 4-year-old 5-year-old plants, cut off branches under some branches of the stem base, leaving only one branch, and then cut off some of the cortex on one side of the branches, and then select the branches that occurred in spring or autumn last year as scions, with similar thickness and long 5~7cm. The lower part of the cortex is also cut off on the lower side of the scion, and then the section of the rootstock is leaned against the section of the scion, so that the two sides are closed and the middle is fastened with plastic film, which can heal after about a week. Then cut off the part of the rootstock above the interface.

Ventral grafting: the rootstock was cut flat at 5~7cm above the ground in the first and middle of March, then polished with grafting knife, and the smooth part with slightly woody part was selected as oblique section, and the depth of 1~1.5cm was deep. The scion should have 2-3 buds, and the lower end should be cut into a 1~1.5cm wedge, then cut one side of the rootstock straight with the scion, tightly insert it into the incision of the rootstock, bind it with plastic film, and generally merge and sprout and grow after half a month. At this time, the soil must be loosened and weeds must be removed. 45-60 days later, start to shoot, at this time must remove the bandage, otherwise the new shoot is easy to bend.

Cultivation techniques of bergamot

Fertilization of bergamot should be determined according to the age and growth of the tree. Generally speaking, quick-acting organic fertilizer should be applied once a month from March to August in the first three years, and topdressing can be applied three times a year after entering the full fruit period, and bran cake, compost, human and animal feces and urine should be applied in time before flowering, young fruit stage and after fruit harvest, respectively, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or compound fertilizer should be added, especially winter fertilizer.

Bergamot should apply good shoot-attacking fertilizer before fruiting period, that is, quick-acting chemical fertilizer and farm manure should be applied 10 days before spring, summer and autumn shoots, generally, about 30g urea per plant, 100g phosphate fertilizer and 5kg chicken and cow manure should be mixed well, combined with intermediate ploughing and weeding, excavation of wide 30cm, deep 25cm ring ditch, and strict soil cover. Fertilizer can not be applied after September to prevent late autumn shoots from growing.

Bergamot can enter the fruiting period in the second year after planting, and the fruit can be harvested continuously for about 30 years. Fertilization should be applied four times a year, and the first pre-anthesis fertilizer should be applied in the middle of March, with 5 kg manure per plant, and a large amount of fertilizer at the peak flowering stage, with 150 g of rotten chicken manure 5kg and urea per plant. For the third time, strong fruit fertilizer was applied before and after "Lesser Heat", and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer was re-applied to promote fruit expansion and increase yield. 1 kg compound fertilizer was mixed with rotten chicken manure 5kg per plant, and foliar fertilizer was sprayed with 100g potassium dihydrogen phosphate and water 50kg at the same time, which was very beneficial to promote tree vigor and fruit expansion. Fruit-picking fertilizer was applied for the fourth time, and symmetrical ditches of wide 40cm and deep 40cm were dug along the crown dripping line on both sides of the plant from September to October, and each plant was treated with rotten chicken and cow manure 10kg, compound fertilizer 1kg and mixed back to the pit.

After one year of cultivation of cutting seedlings or grafted seedlings, when the seedlings reached 50cm, they could be planted in both spring and autumn, and the temperature began to warm up in February, and it was better when the new buds were about to germinate. Generally cooked land, first manage the surrounding drainage ditch, according to the plant spacing of about 3m to dig the nest, if the use of field edge corner planting can be slightly dense, nest diameter about 50cm, deep 30cm, the nest soil to be fine, it is best to use triangular arrangement. One seedling per litter must be planted straight, and the whisker root extends in all directions, obstructing the root with fine soil, gently lifting it up several times, so that the root is close to the soil, and then covered with fine soil to step on it, and finally the soil is slightly higher than the ground.