MySheen

Turning and watering of orchids

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, After several years of potted orchid cultivation, there are many plants and dense roots, which affect the growth and expansion of new grass, as well as the presence of rot in the pot, which provides favorable conditions for bacterial growth. Therefore, it is necessary to turn the basin, split the plant and replace the plant material. Turning the basin generally refers to the regular turning of the basin, according to the previous experience to the early stage of the Spring Equinox to Qingming or the Autumn Equinox to.

After several years of potted orchid cultivation, there are many plants and dense roots, which affect the growth and expansion of new grass, as well as the presence of rot in the pot, which provides favorable conditions for bacterial growth. Therefore, it is necessary to turn the basin, split the plant and replace the plant material. Turning the basin generally refers to the conventional turning of the basin, according to the previous experience, the pre-germination period from the Spring Equinox to Qingming or the pre-dormancy stage from the Autumn Equinox to the Beginning of Winter is the most appropriate. In addition, it is unconventional to turn the basin, as long as it is not in the high temperature above 30 degrees and the low temperature below 5 degrees, it can be carried out. There are some preparatory work to be done before turning the basin, such as stopping watering for a few days to make the plant slightly dry, the root system of Microsoft, easy to operate, but also can avoid root cutting. The unused granular plant material should be soaked in clean water for 3-5 days, so that the plant material is wet thoroughly, and the plant material which is wet outside and dry inside is prone to problems. Use old plant materials and old flowerpots on the pot, must be strictly disinfected, high temperature treatment is the safest. Plastic pots can not be treated at high temperature, solar disinfection is easy to aging, the most convenient disinfection with fungicides. 3/1000 potassium permanganate solution immersion sterilization is no problem, but white plastic pots will be stained with brown patches, not easy to remove, affecting the appearance, can be soaked in 500m methyl topiramate solution. After the plant is removed from the basin, put it in clear water and brush off the dirt with a brush. If you encounter particles that stick closely with the new root, do not force it away. If it is not done well, it will hurt the root. Then get rid of rotten things, many books talk about getting rid of broken roots, empty roots, old roots, rotten roots. The author thinks that it can not be generalized. The broken root is a fleshy part of the fracture, its tendons (central column) will not be broken, as long as the decaying part is removed. Rotten roots are often not rotten tendons, after peeling off the rotten parts, the tendons are black and cut off, the tendons are still white and still have the function of absorbing and transporting water and nutrients, which is a great pity. After cleaning, the plants were disinfected. Soak the plants in 3/1000 potassium permanganate solution or diluted thiophanate solution for 30 minutes, remove them and dry them. The author used this method to disinfect without adverse consequences. Some people do not advocate cleaning and disinfection because it will remove and kill beneficial symbiotic bacteria, which is detrimental to future growth. The author believes that domestic strong plants can not be cleaned and disinfected to protect the survival of symbiotic bacteria, but downhill grass, introduced seedlings and diseased plants must be strictly cleaned and disinfected. To eliminate hidden dangers. When potting, the combination of non-conjoined plants should consider the room for the development of new buds and new roots in the future, and do not stand in the way; the arrangement of leaves should be staggered and dense. The plant material in the basin is divided into the upper, middle and lower layers, according to the function, the lower layer is the hydrophobic layer, and the thicker hard plant material should be used, which is conducive to hydrophobicity; the middle layer is the nutrient layer, and most orchids have their own formula. add a proper proportion of humus soil, coke mud ash, human white and other nutritious substances, the upper layer is the protective layer, the plant material is fine, some people plant green cloud grass, some people cover water moss, all in order to protect the roots, beautiful and tidy. After the hydrophobic layer plant material is added, you can put down the plant, support the plant with one hand and add plant material with the other. When the plant is added halfway to the root, gently lift the plant to the appropriate height so that the root stretches. Then continue to add plant material to the positioning height, pat the edge of the basin for a few times, so that the plant material and root are closely combined, and finally add protective layer plant material. Plants with few roots should also be fixed on flowerpots with plastic straps to prevent them from shaking, which is beneficial to survival. After Shangyi, it is necessary to pour permeable water, commonly known as root water. Some people advocate not watering immediately, because turning pots and ramets will inevitably have wounds, and watering will affect wound healing. In fact, it is all right after putting on cooked lime or sulfur powder on the injury day, and it is better to water the fixed root water. Watering not only provides water to orchids, but also exchanges air between plants. In order to achieve this goal, watering methods are also fastidious. Yilan's ancestors used thin-hole long-necked pots to spray orchid leaves and basin noodles until the bottom of the basin was running water. By watering in this way, the water-receiving area of the plant material is uniform. If you use a water spoon to pour water along one side of the basin, the water goes straight down the basin (especially the coarse-grained plant material). Although the basin bottom runs water, some of the plant material is still dry, especially the plant material in the center of the basin. Over time, it is bound to cause part of the root system to dry, endangering plant life. Urban orchids often use tap water, which contains bleach and chlorine, so it needs to be stored for a few days before use. Use leftover foot water to pour out, there is bleach sediment. With regard to the watering of orchids, the elders have a saying: "the spring is moist, the summer and autumn is slightly tidal, and the winter must be moist and dry." The key words are moistening and tide, how to understand it? Dry and wet are the two extremes of the plant material, and moistening is the middle between dry and wet, that is, neither dry nor wet. In the middle of dampness and moisture, it is wetter than moist. In the run, the belt is dry, that is, the middle between run and dry, which is drier than dry and moist than dry. If we can grasp this watering principle, we will not make mistakes in watering. Shen Yuanru's "Orchid" has a section on watering, which is a summary of his watering experience in his life, which is worth reading. Now a brief record is as follows: after "the Beginning of Spring", the orchids began to grow normally, and the soil should be kept moist and sprayed with a fine-hole long-necked pot every four or five days. After the "sting", the root tips and bud points began to sprout, daily watering should be diligent, the amount of water should not be too much. After "the Beginning of Summer", orchids are mostly in a semi-dormant state, and the pot should be slightly dry. Since June, the weather is getting hotter and the grass grows fast, and the leaves are often sprayed with clean water. After "entering the plum", the two waters are continuous and the air humidity is high, so watering should be controlled. After the occupation, the weather is hot, spray leaves and box noodles with clear water before sunrise every day to soak through the basin noodles. After "White Dew", the weather turned cool, the amount of irrigation was reduced, and the water was watered to a degree of moisture. After the Mid-Autumn Festival, the air is dry, prone to "water chestnut dryness", watering once in the morning and evening. Wash water every few days in late autumn. The principle of watering is mentioned above, but whether the plant in the basin is dry or wet is not known. The author of the high plastic basin with toothpick detection method "simple and reliable, might as well have a try." Roll a strip of Kleenex (about 1 inch wide) obliquely on the toothpick. Insert 2 inches obliquely into the vent of the plastic box. For a moment, pull out the toothpick, the degree of dryness and wetness of Kleenex is the degree of dryness and wetness of the plant. The upper hole and the lower hole can be watered less, the upper hole and the lower hole should be watered, and the upper hole and the lower hole should be watered. The wet and lower hole of the upper hole is the "half-cut" water that is impervious to watering. The soaking method should be used to wet the dry plant material immediately, and the later watering method should be improved.

 
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