How to raise the latest hydrangea?

Hydrangea is shaped like hydrangea, which is afraid of drought, waterlogging, cold and heat, and likes fat and moisture. It is a very "delicate flower". Many people may like this kind of flower, but it is also very skillful for the breeding method of hydrangea. let's take a look at how to raise hydrangea flowers.

How to raise hydrangeas?

1, the temperature and light should be moderate: warm up in winter, cool down and shade in summer, if you want hydrangea to grow well, you must pay attention to the temperature and light of the surrounding environment. Hydrangea can only grow normally between 15 and 27 degrees, so try to transfer it to a sunny place indoors in winter, and the lowest temperature at room temperature should not be lower than five degrees, otherwise the hydrangea will freeze to death or stop growing. In summer, we should focus on cooling and shading, so that the leaves will not be scalded. Too strong sunlight will only cause the leaves to change color or even wither.

2. Watering and fertilization should be appropriate: more watering during bud gestation, more fertilization during dormant period, less watering during dormant period, less watering during dormant period, usually only need to maintain the wetness of the soil surface when watering hydrangea, summer can be used to reduce the temperature around the foliage by spraying water, less watering and semi-dry in winter, more watering during bud pregnancy, at least twice a day, fertilization should also be in place. In the bud period to apply thin fertilizer to hydrangea every ten days, you can add a little bit of ferrous sulfate to make alum fertilizer, or you can spray some liquid fertilizer to the leaves every half a month, which can make the buds blossom. Don't fertilize during the dormant period and let the hydrangea get enough rest.

3. Weeding and pruning should be ruthless: when weeding is to be thoroughly pruned, the growing environment of hydrangea should be kept hygienic at all times, and the weeds grabbing nutrients should be removed as soon as they are exposed. Never show mercy or have a fish out of the net. Generally speaking, in order to make the plant type more beautiful, it is necessary to pick the heart when there are too many new leaves, and we should also pay attention to pruning some overgrown and dense branches. in addition, the diseased branches and leaves after blooming also need our main pruning objects. these miscellaneous branches should be removed in time so as not to compete with the main branches for nutrition.

The Culture Environment of Hydrangea

1. Temperature: the optimum temperature for the growth of hydrangea is 18-28 ℃, and the winter temperature is not lower than 5 ℃. Flower bud differentiation takes 6-8 weeks under the condition of 5-7 ℃. The temperature of 20 ℃ can promote flowering, maintain 16 ℃ after anthesis, and prolong the flowering period. But the heat makes the flowers fade quickly.

2. Humidity: the basin soil should be kept moist, but it should not be watered too much, especially in the rainy season to prevent rotting roots caused by waterlogging. It is better to dry indoor potted plants in winter. If it is too dry and wet, the leaves will rot easily.

3. Illumination: Hydrangea is a short-day plant, which is treated in the dark for more than 10 hours every day and forms flower buds in about 45-50 days. Usually cultivation should avoid the hot sun, and 60%-70% shading is the best.

4. Soil: the sandy loam with loose, fertile and good drainage is better. However, with the change of soil pH, the flower color of hydrangea changed greatly. In order to deepen the blue, aluminum sulfate can be applied during bud formation. To keep pink, lime can be applied to the soil.

Soil change and pruning of hydrangea

1, turn the basin to change the soil: potted hydrangea, generally turn the pot to change the soil once a year. It is appropriate to turn the basin and change the soil in the first ten days of March. The new soil was prepared with 4 parts of foliage soil, 4 parts of garden soil and 2 parts of sand, and then an appropriate amount of rotten cake fertilizer was added as base fertilizer. When changing, it is necessary to prune the roots of the plant, cutting off rotten roots, rotten roots and overlong roots. After the plant is moved into the new pot, the soil should be compacted, watered and placed in a shaded place for about 10 days, and then moved outside for normal management.

2. Pruning and shaping: in order to make the crown of potted hydrangea beautiful and blossom, it is necessary to prune the plant. Hydrangea grows vigorously and is resistant to pruning. Generally can be from the survival of the seedlings, grow to 10-15 cm high, that is for heart-picking treatment, so that the lower axillary buds can germinate. Then the four new shoots in the middle and upper part were selected and all the axillary buds in the lower part were removed. When the new branch grows to 8-10 cm, the second coring is carried out. Hydrangea generally blossoms on biennial strong branches. after flowering, the old branches should be cut short and 2-3 buds should be retained to limit the growth of plants and promote the growth of new shoots. Cut off the top of the new shoots after autumn to stop the branches from growing so as to survive the winter. After such pruning, the plant type is more beautiful, which greatly enhances the ornamental value.

Prevention and control of diseases and insect pests of hydrangea

1, leaf spot disease: the main harm to leaves, the disease spot round to polygonal, brown or dark gray, the edge of purple-brown or nearly dark brown. At the initial stage of the disease, 65% of Dyson zinc wettable powder was sprayed 500 times or Bordeaux solution (1 / 1 / 200) and sprayed once every 7 days for 2 consecutive 3 times.

2. Rust: it mainly harms the leaves, with large light yellow to rusty brown spores on the leaves, and the diseased leaves are dry and broken. During the onset season, spray 15% rust rather than 800 times of wettable powder.

3. Blight: it mainly harms the leaves and stems, and the leaves near the ground produce watery chloasma, which spreads to the stems, causing the leaves to dry up and the stems turn black and rot. At the initial stage of the disease, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times, or 50% thiram wettable powder 500 times.

4. Powdery mildew: it mainly harms leaves and can infect stems in severe cases. The leaf surface shows a light gray mildew layer, and then gradually becomes light brown. During the onset of the disease, the patients were sprayed with 1000 times of Fenru Ning wettable powder or 1000 times of 70% methyl topiramate wettable powder, once every 7 days, for 2 times in a row.

5. Scale insects: it mainly harms young stems and leaves, resulting in yellowing leaves and dry branches. When a small amount occurs, brush it off gently with a soft brush, then rinse it off with water. When using chemical control, it is best to spray 1000 times of 80% dichlorvos or 1000 times of 50% fenitrothion EC during the nymph incubation period.