MySheen

How to plant the latest lily bulbs?

Published: 2024-09-19 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/09/19, Lily, also known as Qiangli, Ilein, Shandan, Fengxian, etc., is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant of Liliaceae, native to China, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of eastern Asia, Europe, North America and other temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, with elegant flowers and beautiful leaves. Stem pavilion

Lily, also known as Qiangli, Ilein, Shandan, Fengxian, etc., is a perennial herbaceous bulb plant of Liliaceae, native to China, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of eastern Asia, Europe, North America and other temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, with elegant flowers, green leaves and graceful stems, which are regarded as valuable cut flower rookies. Let's take a look at how to plant lily bulbs.

Growth habits of lilies

Lily likes a cool and humid environment, and places with plenty of sunlight and slightly shady environment are more suitable for lilies. Avoid drought, avoid extreme heat, cold resistance is slightly worse. The temperature of growth and flowering is 16-24 ℃, and the night temperature in winter is lower than 5 ℃ and lasts for 5-7 days, the flower bud differentiation and bud development will be seriously affected, and the flowering will be delayed or even blind and split. Like fertile, humus deep soil, the most avoid hard clay, with good drainage of slightly acidic soil is better. Reproduction includes bulb propagation, scale cuttage, sowing propagation and tissue culture.

Planting techniques of Lily

1. Soil disinfection: soil disinfection should be carried out before planting lilies. The commonly used disinfection methods are steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is seldom used at present because of high energy consumption and troublesome operation. Chemical disinfection is to sprinkle the soil with 40% formalin at 1:50 or 1RU 100x solution, with a dosage of 2.5kg / m2, cover with plastic film for 5 days, open and dry for 15 days, and then plant, or disinfect the soil with carbendazim powder 8g / m2.

2. Seed ball thawing: immediately after the seed ball arrived, the package was opened and thawed at 10: 15 ℃. After complete thawing, it was disinfected. Soak the seed ball in 1/1000 carbendan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate and other aqueous solutions for 30 minutes.

3. Seed ball storage: if the thawed seed ball can not be planted immediately, it can no longer be frozen, otherwise there is a risk of freezing injury. It can be stored under the condition of 0-2 ℃, but only for two weeks at most. It can also be stored in a 2-5 ℃ environment for up to a week, and the plastic film must be opened.

4. Planting density: the planting depth in spring and summer requires that the top of the bulb should be 8~lO cm from the surface, and 6-8 cm in winter. The planting density varies with variety, bulb size and seasonal factors, which can be denser in spring and summer, and sparse in winter when the sun is weak.

Planting Management of Lily

1. Temperature management: in order to obtain high-quality cut lily flowers, temperature control in greenhouse is very important. In order to promote rooting, the soil temperature must be kept at a low temperature of 9: 13 ℃ within 3-4 weeks after planting. If the temperature is too low, the growth period will be prolonged unnecessarily, while when the temperature is higher than 15 ℃, it will lead to poor root development.

2. Humidity management: the soil moisture before planting is better to hold tightly and fall loosely. In the high temperature season, cold water should be irrigated once before planting to reduce the soil temperature. Watering again after planting makes the soil fully contact with the seed bulb and creates good conditions for the development of stem rooting. The standard of later watering is to keep the soil moist, that is, it is appropriate to hold a handful of soil mass without coming out of the water. Watering is usually chosen on a sunny morning. The relative humidity should be 80-85%, and the relative humidity should avoid too much fluctuation, otherwise leaf burning may occur.

3. Fertilizer management: the early stage of flowering lily bulb growth mainly consumes the nutrients stored in its own scales, so it is not necessary to add too much bottom fertilizer before planting, and some fertilizers can be applied according to the soil fertility one month after planting. Apply 10 kg per mu every 10 to 15 days until 3 weeks before flower picking. At the same time, attention should be paid to the supplement of trace elements, such as iron, boron, zinc and so on.

4. Light management: light is an important condition to control quality, and lily flower bud development especially needs sufficient light. Lack of light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily sprouting, lighter leaf color and flower color, and shorten vase life. When lilies are planted in winter in northern China, about 25% of the sun is blocked due to the influence of thermal insulation materials such as glass or plastic film, so in addition to keeping the surface of glass and plastic film clean and making them transparent, some varieties also need to make up light. Incandescent lamps can be used to make up the light.

5. Carbon dioxide: carbon dioxide is beneficial to the growth and flowering of lilies. At 8: 10 a.m. on a sunny day, carbon dioxide gas pills are applied in the unventilated greenhouse to increase the content of carbon dioxide in the shed. Other methods can also be used.

Disease control of lily

1. Penicilliosis

[symptoms] White spots grow on scale decay spots during storage, and then fluffy green-blue patches grow. After infection, decay increases gradually, even at a low temperature of-2 ℃. The pathogen will eventually invade the base of the bulb, making the bulb lose its value or slow the plant growth. Although the infected bulb looks unhealthy, as long as the bulb basal disc is intact, the growth of the plant will not be affected during planting. After planting, the infection does not transfer to the stem, nor does it infect the plant from the soil.

[prevention and control] the bulbs should be stored at the recommended lowest temperature, and do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have been invaded. Before planting, susceptible bulbs must be soaked in 1/1000 carbendan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim and other fungicides aqueous solution for 30 minutes, and then planted. After planting, maintain the appropriate soil temperature.

2. Rhizoctonia

[symptoms] if the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves in the lower part of the buds, with sunken light brown spots on the leaves. Generally speaking, although the growth of the plant is affected, it can continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the growth of the upper part is hindered, and the white leaves in the underground and those at the bottom of the shoot will rot or wilt, leaving only brown scars on the stem.

[prevention and treatment] disinfect the suspected infected soil with soil disinfectant. After disinfection, the soil must not be infected again. If the previous crop has shown to be infected and general soil disinfectants cannot be applied, the soil should be pre-treated with Rhizoctonia control agents before planting (completely infiltrating into the soil 10 cm deep).

3. Phytophthora

[symptoms] the foot rot of the plant (Phytophthora) hinders growth or causes it to wither suddenly, producing soft rot at the infected base of the stem, turning dark green to dark brown, spreading upward, the leaves turn yellow and begin to lose color at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infection often occurs on the stem on the ground, causing the stem to collapse or bend.

[prevention and control] disinfecting infected soil with general soil disinfectants, and using fungicides to control Pythium during cultivation can also effectively control foot rot, ensure that the soil has good drainage conditions, and prevent crops from being moist for a long time after watering. The soil temperature should be as low as possible in summer.

4. Pythium

[symptoms] this kind of bacteria invades both a single plant and the plants in an area, the plant is short, the lower leaves turn yellow, the upper leaves become narrow, the leaf color is light, and often wilt. On plants affected by root rot, flower buds dry and shrink. Pull up the plants and see transparent, beige rot spots on the bulbs and roots, or they become completely soft and rotten.

[prevention and control] disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with general soil disinfectants, keep the soil temperature low at the initial stage of cultivation, and adopt correct cultivation steps throughout the cultivation period. cultivation in a box filled with potted soil and peat can control Pythium. Fungicides against Pythium that can be easily sprayed on crops can be used after crops have grown or may have occurred, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before spraying will significantly enhance the efficacy of fungicides and rinse crops clean.

 
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