MySheen

The latest pruning skills of bonsai

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, Bonsai takes plants, rocks, soil, water and other materials as materials, and through artistic creation and horticultural cultivation, it typically and centrally shapes the beautiful scenery of nature in the basin, achieving the artistic effect of shrinking the dragon into an inch and seeing the big in the small, while expressing its feelings with the scenery and expressing the far-reaching artistic conception.

Bonsai takes plants, rocks, soil, water and other materials as materials. Through artistic creation and horticultural cultivation, bonsai typically and centrally shape the beautiful scenery of nature in the basin, so as to achieve the artistic effect of shrinking the size of the dragon and seeing the big in the small. At the same time, it expresses its feelings and expresses its far-reaching artistic conception, just like a three-dimensional beautiful miniature version of the landscape scenic area. let's take a look at the pruning skills of bonsai.

Pruning skills of bonsai

1. Cutting late but not early: it is generally believed that trees stop growing in winter, which is the best time to prune branches, and it is emphasized that winter pruning should be done. This view is not comprehensive enough. To be exact, some tree species can be cut in winter, such as crape myrtle. After short pruning in winter, the branches seem to be dry. When spring comes, new buds will grow on the short branches. In fact, "spring shearing" is better than "winter shearing". Trees are pruned before sprouting in early spring, when the air temperature is higher, and new buds will sprout in a relatively short time, so there is no danger of branches drying up. Compared with "winter scissors", "spring scissors" does no other harm. Trees that blossom in spring, such as rhododendron and plum blossom, must be later and prune after they stop blooming, otherwise cutting off the branches will be contrary to one's wishes.

2. Cut thick but not thin: some people pursue the rapid prototyping of bonsai and can't wait to cut the new branches that have not yet been lignified, hoping to grow lateral branches again that year, and then cut them two or three times a year, so that bonsai can quickly form several levels of branch supports. The right thing to do is to wait for the branches to be Lignified and roughly grow to a predetermined thickness before cutting, so that the lateral branches must form a better angle. In order to overcome the impatience, the branches intended to be used as supports must be made to grow to a predetermined thickness, generally growing for at least one year, and if not thick enough, do not hesitate to grow for another year.

3. Cut fat without cutting thin: after short cutting, the branch receptacle does not sprout for a long time, even if it does sprout, the growth of lateral branches is not exuberant, this is due to lack of fertilizer. It is necessary to promote the rapid growth of strong buds and the rapid growth of new branches. On the premise that the amount of fertilizer does not produce "fertilizer damage", the more the better. In the peak growing season, you can water and fertilize once at intervals. But be careful not to be too strong. In this way, the side branches should keep growing during the growing season when the temperature is suitable.

How do you trim the bonsai?

The main contents are as follows: 1. Retaining support: pile blank cultivation, numerous branches and buds, uncertain deletion, difficult to cut down, or the idea is biased, resulting in wrong cutting, which can be adjusted, but it can prolong the time of branch accumulation and its shape, because the fixed support is the premise of the frame, according to the pile straight, oblique, curved, lying, hanging, water and other personality characteristics, it should be integrated into the author's conceptual image, retaining branches, removing all miscellaneous branches and buds, concentrated nourishment, and preserving the remaining branches. In order to enter the pruning and production process as soon as possible.

2. Coordinated pruning: branch supports grow wildly, when to trim and where to cut, there should be a comparison of thickness and length, which runs through the production of basin tree modeling and is related to all parts of the basin tree structure. In the meantime, the ratio of branches to stems, the ratio of branches to each other, and the comparison of steps between the main and secondary veins of branches, and so on, must be clear before cutting, and they are intended to be cut before pruning, so that the branches can be cut up and down properly.

3. Precise fine pruning: the angle of the branch buds, the divergent direction of the branches, and the staggering among each other, reflecting that the branch supports stretch and rotate up and down in space, and the angle is improperly chosen. Although it can be made up by flat binding, it is not as good as the natural state after all. Therefore, when choosing the angle of the bud point, we should not only pay attention to one, but not the other, that is, we should not only make clear the interrelationship between the branch direction, spatial state, and other branch supports. Moreover, it is necessary to "advance" ideas, make some judgments, and avoid mechanical, rigid, and stereotyped ideas.

4. Integrated pruning: the outline shows the overall tree state of the pot tree, that is, the so-called triangular or unequilateral triangular composition. Here, the length of individual branches should be subordinated to the whole, grasp the point, line and melt into the whole surface. Overall observation, local pruning, comprehensive adjustment, at this time the pot tree basically tends to be plump and mature, belongs to the styling production stage, its focus lies in the length of the branch support opening and closing and the overall relationship of the outer porch.

Bonsai pruning method

1. Unbalanced pruning: unbalanced pruning is not a comprehensive pruning, but a local pruning method adopted according to the physiological characteristics of the plant, which is beneficial to the healthy growth of the shape and branches, and avoids morbid branch shrinkage, which includes pruning and branch control.

① shearing: generally, when the new billet survives and stays, the redundant branches are cut off without reservation, so that the remaining branches are ventilated and illuminated, at the same time, the supply of nutrients is concentrated, the branches grow fast and strong, and the storage time of the branch support is shortened.

② branch control: generally in the initial process of branch receptacle storage and modeling production, due to the positive orientation of plants, apical dominance and other reasons, the growth of branches is often out of sync, and the growth speed is fast and slow. In order to make the weak branches develop and grow as soon as possible, some branches with relatively high proportion must be controlled consciously (cutting off most of the branches or side branches), so that the weak branches can have sufficient light nutrients, so as not to affect the pruning of the whole shape due to the immaturity of individual branches.

2. Balanced pruning: balanced pruning is omni-directional pruning, usually before the pot tree is close to taking shape or participating in the exhibition. At this time, it can be comprehensively trimmed and carried out repeatedly, which can not only make the branches mature and plump, but also keep the tree beautiful.

3. Pruning with leaves: it means that the branches left by pruning must carry leaves, especially if it is determined that the bud position leaving a branch must be with leaves, if there are no leaves, the branches will be cut down to the place with leaves. By forcing the bud, wait for the remaining bud to sprout normally, and then re-cut it in place. This is due to the physiological characteristics of the plant and the transfusion of the tree sap it contains. Therefore, in general, leaves must be taken if unbalanced pruning, otherwise it may cause shearing and even withered branches.

4. Reserved pruning: according to the different callus ability and special conditions of tree species, it is mainly reserved for prevention in the process of pruning, that is, it is not in place at once, cut twice, and leave one or two more buds to be pruned after the remaining buds become twigs. Or pruning when the reserved nodes wither naturally, such as sparrow plum and Magnolia officinalis, this method is often used in pruning. In the specific implementation, the coarse branch wound is large, easy to atrophy, can be reserved for longer, twig atrophy degree is relatively small, short can be retained.

 
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