The latest fruit cultivation method

Amorphophallus, also known as purple stem taro, leaf-cutting taro, silk fibroin vine, white butterfly, etc., is a perennial evergreen herb of Araceae, native to tropical America, because of its easy reproduction, simple cultivation, special shade tolerance and excellent decorative effect. now as a foliage plant is widely cultivated all over the world, let's take a look at the cultivation methods of taro.

Culture value of synthetic taro

Fruit taro has become one of the most popular indoor potted foliage plants in the international market. The cultivation of synthetic fruit taro in China is very common in southern provinces. In addition to indoor foliage potted plants, it is used for hanging pots or setting up pillars for styling. It is more used for outdoor semi-shaded ground to be covered, and it is a promising evergreen vine herb. Large basin pillar cultivation can be used for hall furnishings, and can be used as hedge and corner, background, wall climbing and floor paving materials in outdoor semi-shady places in warm areas.

The Propagation method of synthetic Taro

1. Cutting: Amorphophallus is often propagated by cuttings, and the vigorous plants often sprout many lateral branches at the base. When the lateral branches grow 3-5 leaves, the shoots above the second section can be cut off and the cuttings growing about 10 cm can be cut off. If the branches have grown roots, you can cut off the potted plants directly. Fine sand is the best choice for bed planting, and the bed temperature should be kept above 25 ℃ to promote rooting. After the new buds grow, they can be planted in pots.

2. Tissue culture: explants were commonly used for stem tip and lateral buds of taro. After routine disinfection, the stem tips were inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 5 mg / L 6-benzylaminoadenine and 2 mg / L indole acetic acid. 45 days later, adventitious buds were transferred to 1/2MS medium supplemented with 2 mg / 1 indole acetic acid to induce root, and the plantlets became complete after about 20 days.

3. Ramet: the synthetic taro grows fast and should be divided in 2-3 years, which should be carried out in April when changing pots. The potted soil can be mixed with 3 parts of pond mud, 1 part of compost and 1 part of sand.

Culture method of synthetic fruit taro

1. Lighting: taro has a strong adaptability to light and likes astigmatism, but when the sun is too strong, the edge of its leaves will wither and yellow, and if the light is too dark, it will make the leaves have no light. In winter, there is no need to shade it. If you are in the position of lack of light for a long time, the leaves will grow crazily and the pattern will fade quickly.

2. Watering: taro is a plant that likes to be moist and afraid of drought. in summer, it should be watered adequately and keep the basin soil moist, which is beneficial to its stem growth. In winter, the watering of taro should be reduced, and its potted soil should not be too wet, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot and leaf withering in low temperature environment.

Temperature: synthetic taro is not resistant to cold, like high temperature and high humidity environment, generally its growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, in winter, can not be lower than 15 degrees.

4. Fertilization: under bright light, thin fertilizer water should be applied to the taro every two weeks, and 0.2% solution should be sprayed once a month. In winter, the fruit taro needs to be fertilized.

5. Soil: Amorphophallus likes the slightly acidic soil with high temperature and humidity, loose and fertile soil and good drainage. It's going on. When potted, it can be planted with a mixture of rotten leaf soil, peat soil and coarse sand.

6. Diseases and insect pests: common leaf spot and gray mold of taro can be sprayed with 700 times of 70% zinc wettable powder, and can be prevented by spraying with the same amount of Bordeaux solution. Whitefly and thrips are harmful to stems and leaves, which are sprayed with 1500 times of omethoate EC.

What if the leaves of taro turn yellow?

1. Water yellow: caused by excessive watering, it is characterized by no obvious change in the old leaves and yellowing of the young leaves, which should be controlled immediately.

2. Dry yellow: caused by lack of water and drought, it is characterized by yellow old leaves from bottom to top. If it is short of water for a long time, it will be yellow leaves of the whole plant, or even die, and should be watered in time.

3. Fat yellow: caused by excessive fertilization or high concentration, characterized by thick, shiny and uneven young leaves, fertilizer, ploughing and watering should be controlled.

4. Hungry yellow: it is caused by insufficient fertilizer, low fertilization concentration and long interval of fertilization, which is characterized by yellow young leaves and tender stems. If you do not apply fertilizer in time after seeing this phenomenon, it will also cause yellow leaves and even death of the whole plant. For flowers that lack fertilizer, do not apply a large amount of thick fertilizer at one time, so as not to cause root burning.