How to raise the latest potted sword orchid?

Sword orchid scientific name gladiolus, also known as calamus orchid, flat bamboo lotus, ten brocade, etc., for Iridaceae Gladiolus perennial herbs, widely cultivated all over the world, for important fresh cut flowers, flower baskets, bouquets, vases, etc., can be arranged flower border and special flower beds, dwarf varieties can be potted to watch, let's take a look at pot sword orchid how to raise it!

Growth habits of Cymbidium

Sword orchid is a warm plant, but too high air temperature is disadvantageous to growth and is not cold-tolerant. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-25 ℃, and the corm can sprout in the soil temperature above 5 ℃. In typical long-day plants, long-day sunshine is beneficial to flower bud differentiation, lack of light will reduce the number of flowers, but after flower bud differentiation, short-day sunshine is beneficial to flower bud formation and early flowering. The bulbs of summer flowers must be stored indoors for the winter, and the room temperature should not be lower than 0 ℃. The fertile sandy loam is suitable for cultivated soil, and the pH value is less than 7. Especially like fertilizer, phosphate fertilizer can improve the quality of flowers, potassium fertilizer can improve the quality of corms and the number of bulbs.

Propagation methods of Cymbidium

1. Ball points: after one year of cultivation, one mother ball will produce 1 or 2 commercial balls and many seed balls. The middle ball and the big ball adopt the trenching point planting method, the groove depth is about 3 times of the ball diameter, and the plant distance is flexibly controlled according to the ball diameter. The small ball adopts the trench sowing method, and the sub-ball mostly uses the direct sowing method. It is necessary to apply sufficient basic fertilizer before planting, but it should be noted that the fertilizer should not be in direct contact with the corm, pay attention to water management after sowing, and do not dry or water before emergence.

2. Cutting ball: for some rare varieties of sword orchid to rapidly expand the reproduction coefficient, the full commercial ball can be cut into 2-4 pieces, and each piece must have part of the root disc and complete buds to propagate. To prevent the bulb from rotting, the section should be smeared with charcoal powder or plant ash and planted immediately.

3. Tissue culture: tissue culture can renew and rejuvenate conventional cultivated varieties, because of long-term asexual propagation, variety mixing and degradation is very serious, so tissue culture must be carried out regularly to detoxify and rejuvenate, petals and lateral buds can be used as explants. After disinfection and inoculation, the seedlings can be cultured under the condition of 25 ℃ and 2000 L, and the seedlings can be obtained by induction, subculture and rooting culture. If the plantlets continue to be cultured, the test-tube bulbs can be obtained, the test-tube corms can be trained and grow into mother balls after two years of planting.

How to grow potted sword orchids?

1. Temperature: Jian Lanxi requires a high temperature, the optimum temperature is about 20 degrees Celsius, when the temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius, it will stop growing, and when it is less than 3 degrees Celsius, it may die of frostbite.

2. Illumination: sword orchid is a light-loving plant, and sunshine is required for a long time, so long-term sunshine is needed when growing, otherwise insect pests or some diseases will occur.

3. Humidity: the humidity requirements of sword orchids are actually the same as those of some other plants, such as pineapple and egg flowers. As long as you maintain a certain amount of humidity, remember to pour more water on the leaves to keep them moist when it is hot in summer.

4. Soil: sword orchid prefer soil rich in organic matter, rich in fertilizer, and generally keep good ventilation and drainage.

5. Watering: sword orchid belongs to bulbous plant, which is strict in water and fertilizer control. From planting to potted plants, the money needs to moisten the soil to a certain extent. The general requirement is that the soil is not dry and not watered, as soon as it is dry.

6. Fertilization: the fertilization of sword orchid is also very important. Generally, fertilization begins after the beginning of Zhang's leaves. In the bud stage, fertilization must not be nitrogen fertilizer, which is the phosphorus fertilizer needed for flowering. And weeds are often weeded.

Disease and pest control of sword orchid

1. Mosaic disease

[symptoms] infect leaves, floral organs and other parts. In the early stage of the disease, there were faded green angular spots and round spots on the leaves, and the expansion of the disease spots were mostly polygonal due to the limitation of leaf veins, and finally turned brown. Diseased leaves, yellowing, twisting. The diseased plants are short and short, and the seriously diseased plants can not produce flower ears. In early summer, the symptoms on the new leaves are particularly obvious, but in the middle of summer, the symptoms are not obvious, and the symptoms are hidden.

Strengthen quarantine to control the occurrence of diseases. The corms without virus were selected for planting and the corms with virus were destroyed uniformly to reduce the re-infection of flowers. Pull out the diseased plants in the flower bed in time to prevent mutual infection. During the onset of the disease, use 58% mancozeb wettable powder 500x solution or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times solution for foliar spraying, once every 7 days, generally spraying 3 times 4 times.

2. Dry rot

[symptoms] damage the bulbs, leaves, flowers and roots of the plant. During the disease, the plant first yellowed from the tip of the lateral leaves, then spread to the medial leaves, and finally withered.

[prevention and control] continuous cropping of flower beds should be avoided as far as possible, it is not suitable to apply more nitrogen fertilizer, and appropriately increase the use of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Before planting, the bulbs can be soaked in 50% carbendazim 500 times solution for 30 minutes. In the early stage of plant disease, 1000 times solution of 50% Dysen zinc was sprayed on the leaf surface once every 7 days, usually 3 times.

3. Leaf spot

[symptoms] the pathogen can infect leaves and corms, and the leaves produce brown spots after infection, then gradually expand, the color deepens gradually, and finally cause the leaves to wither. After the corm is infected, the plant is short and even does not bloom.

[prevention and control] crop rotation is carried out, and seriously diseased areas must be rotated to reduce pathogenic seedlings. The corms should be dried after harvest and stored dry to prevent decay. 50% thiram can be used before planting before sowing. Chemical control can be sprayed with 75% chlorothalonil 800 times or treated with 65% Dysen zinc.

4. Scab

[symptoms] damage the bulbs and sometimes the leaves. Waterlogged round spot appeared after corm infection, the color gradually deepened from gray to dark brown, the edge of the spot was prominent, the middle was sunken, and waterlogged soft rot occurred after leaf infection.

Disease-resistant cultivation, choose a highly dry and ventilated environment, pay attention to drainage, carry out crop rotation, and maintain field hygiene. The disease can only be prevented but not cured, and there is no specific drug.

5. Fusarium wilt

[symptoms] occur on bulbs and sometimes infect leaves and flowers. At the beginning of the disease, there are small reddish-brown spots, and then gradually expand and sunken atrophy, or even rot, and then grow white filaments. After sowing, the damaged bulbs grew poorly, flowered and deformed, while the severe ones could not sprout or die at the seedling stage.

[prevention and control] double selection and disinfection of corms, grading and removal of diseased balls after harvest, soaking bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution for 2 hours, washing with warm water, drying and cold storage until the next spring, making the second selection when sowing, and disinfecting with 500 times of 5% carbendazim, sowing again to avoid continuous cropping.

6. Grey mold

[symptoms] often occur on leaves and petals, small grayish-brown spots often appear at the beginning of the disease, then gradually expand, and gray mold appears on the surface of the disease spot.

[prevention and control] reasonable storage of bulbs, keep the environment dry, keep the cultivation environment ventilated and transparent, good drainage, chemical control can be used 80% Dysen zinc wettable powder 500 times 700 times spraying effect is better.

7. Thrips

[symptoms] bite the leaves, stems and flowers of the plant, change the color of the leaves, leave white-gray food marks and spawning marks on the Corolla, causing the petals to curl.

[control] it can be sprayed with 1000 times of 40% dimethoate EC or 80% dichlorvos EC.