How to raise the latest potted chrysanthemums?

Chrysanthemum is the third most famous flower in China, one of the four gentlemen (plum orchid bamboo chrysanthemum), also known as Shouke, Jinying, Huang Hua, etc., is a perennial root herb of Compositae, according to the cultivation form is divided into multi-head chrysanthemum, single chrysanthemum, big chrysanthemum, cliff chrysanthemum, art chrysanthemum, desk chrysanthemum and other types, let's take a look at how to raise potted chrysanthemums!

Growth habits of chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant, in short-day light can blossom early, like the sun, avoid shade, early tolerance, afraid of waterlogging, like warm and humid climate, but also cold-resistant, the rhizome can survive the winter underground in severe winter. Flowers can withstand micro-frost, but higher air temperature is needed for seedling growth and branching budding stage, the optimum temperature for growth is 18-21 ℃, the highest is 32 ℃, and the lowest is 10 ℃. The limit of low temperature tolerance of underground rhizome is generally-10 ℃, the lowest night temperature is 17 ℃ at flowering stage, and can be reduced to 15-13 ℃ at middle and post-flowering stage.

Propagation methods of Chrysanthemum morifolium

1. Bud insertion: cut the outer foot bud of the plant in autumn and winter, insert it in the flowerpot or bed coarse sand in the greenhouse or greenhouse, keep it at room temperature of 7-8 ℃, and plant it outdoors after warm spring.

2. Shoot cuttings: chrysanthemum shoot cuttings are the most widely used. More than 8-10 cm of tender techniques are intercepted from April to May as cuttings. Most varieties take root in about 3 weeks at the temperature of 18-21 ℃, and the seedlings can be transferred to the pot in about 4 weeks.

3. Ground insertion: the chrysanthemum planting medium can be mixed with garden soil and rice chaff ash of 1par 3. Put up a Reed curtain on the high bed for shade. Full-light plug-in bed, if there is automatic spraying equipment, no shade is needed.

4. Leaf bud insertion: chrysanthemum leaf bud insertion is to cut a leaf with axillary bud from the branch and insert it. This method is only used to breed rare varieties.

5. Ramet: the chrysanthemum ramet is generally dug up before and after the Qingming Festival, separated according to the natural shape of the root, and planted in the basin.

6. Grafting: the seeds of Artemisia annua were collected at the end of autumn, sown in greenhouse in winter, or raised in hotbed in March. In late April, the seedlings were moved to the basin or field when the height was 3-4 cm, and split grafting was carried out in sunny days.

7. Striping: this method is used only when the bud is reproduced by pressing chrysanthemum.

8. Seeds: chrysanthemum seeds germinate slowly above 10 degrees Celsius, and the optimum temperature is 25 ℃. It is sparsely sown from February to April, and can blossom more in the same year under normal circumstances.

How to raise potted chrysanthemums?

1. Potted soil: chrysanthemum has wide adaptability to soil acidity and alkalinity, and can grow in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. It is required that the pH value is between 5.5 and 7.0. The fertile sandy soil should be selected. After changing the basin for 2 or 3 times, the basin can be fixed in July. 6 parts of rotten leaf soil, 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cake fertilizer residue can be used to prepare mixed soil. After watering thoroughly, put it in a cool place, wait for the plant to grow normally and move to the sunny place.

2. Temperature: first of all, the key to raising autumn chrysanthemum is to make it through the winter. Due to the different climatic conditions in the north and south of our country, the management methods of autumn chrysanthemum overwintering are also different. After the flowers of chrysanthemums cultivated in the open field in some areas of the south are faded, when the stems and leaves gradually wither, the chrysanthemum plants can be cut off at 15 cm above the ground, overwintered once, and then covered with deciduous dry soil to make the stems and leaves exposed 3-5 cm for ventilation, so that they can survive the winter safely.

3. Lighting: chrysanthemum is a typical short-day flower, which forms flower buds and blossoms only when the sunshine is short every day. In the case of long sunshine, only long stems and leaves, can not form flower buds. In general, 14.5 hours of sunshine per day is required during vegetative growth and 12 hours per day during flower bud differentiation.

4. Moisture: the water management during the growing period of chrysanthemum must be carried out in accordance with the principle of "timely watering during drought and timely drainage during waterlogging". And make sure you have enough water before and after the pregnancy. Watering can also be combined with fertilization, but also pay attention to "see wet see dry", that is, neither half-dry and half-wet, nor too dry and too wet. There is to spray foliar water to the leaves once every morning and evening.

5, fertilization: chrysanthemum in addition to the need to apply sufficient basic fertilizer, topdressing should not be too much or too early, otherwise it will cause root damage and fallen leaves. However, since the Beginning of Autumn, from the beginning of the pregnant bud to the time of budding, the fertilizer and water should be sufficient, and the thin bone sauce residue water should be applied once a week. When adding calcium superphosphate or 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution when budding, the flowers will be more colorful. Water and loosen the soil in time after each fertilization to facilitate ventilation.

6. Pruning: in the strong seedling stage, chrysanthemums sprout many axillary buds, which should be pinched off with their fingers in time, otherwise they will consume a lot of nutrients and grow many small branches of florets, making the plant look disorganized. During pregnancy, side buds sometimes appear on the branchlets under the parietal buds. In addition to those that need to be retained, they should also be removed with tweezers as soon as possible to promote parietal bud hypertrophy.

7. Diseases and insect pests: the main diseases of chrysanthemum are rust, black spot and gray mold. Rust harms leaves and stems, especially leaves, which can be sprayed with 65% zinc wettable powder 500 times. Black spot mainly harms leaves and can be sprayed with the same amount of Bordeaux solution. Botrytis cinerea harms flowers, leaves, stems, etc., and is sprayed with 65% zinc wettable powder 500 times at the initial stage of the disease.