The breeding method of orchids

Shen Yuan, such as the Twelve Orchids in "Orchid", the reproduction of orchids is divided into asexual and sexual. Those who reproduce with part of the vegetative body are called asexual reproduction; those who reproduce with seeds are called sexual reproduction. The method of dividing plants in asexual reproduction has always been adopted in our country, but sexual reproduction must master rich experience, skilled technology and certain equipment in the process of pollination, seed collection, sowing and seedling rearing. Therefore, this method is generally used only when scientific research institutions cultivate new species. (1) asexual reproduction. The split-plant magnolia is a kind of plant with pseudobulbs. When the pseudobulbs thrive to a certain time, they can be cut open with a sharp thin-edged knife, and then they are respectively planted in pots to become new plants. This method is called split-plant method. According to the custom of Chinese art and orchid circles, it is commonly known as "dividing the basin" or "dividing the nest". This method seems simple, but due to plant physiological habits and seasonal limitations, as well as technical treatment, it is still relatively complex and not easy for the time being. According to the traditional law of our country and the author's experience in practice for many years, it is described as follows: (1) ramet propagation in the suitable period can be carried out except during the severe cold and summer period. but the most suitable period is around April or September (that is, from "Qingming Festival" to "Grain Rain", when the climate is gradually warm in spring, the seed buds have not yet sprouted, and the new roots have not yet grown. Before and after the Autumn Equinox, seed buds and flower buds had already broken the soil, germinated into new grass, young buds grew, and most of the new roots grew, the temperature gradually became cooler in autumn, and the temperature difference was small. In these two periods, the plant is easy to resume growth, which has little effect on the orchid after ramet. (2) if potted orchids are cultivated well, they can be propagated every three or five years, but spring orchids must have four or five tubes of grass (one tube per leaf bundle), and cymbidium must have seven or eight tubes, as well as other types of orchids. Of course, ideally, when there are too many leaf bundles in the basin, as the pseudobulbs continue to multiply and separate, there will be a natural wide gap between the tubes, which is commonly known as the "road" in the art world. After the formation of the "road", the pseudo-corms are easily separated naturally, and the roots are also easy to be separated, so that they do not cause wounds and are conducive to the rapid recovery of plant growth. Before ramet, we must water less to make the soil in the basin slightly drier, because the soil is too wet, and the wet mud sticks to the root system when turning the basin. When unstacking and dividing the nest, the Langen is easy to break and get hurt. When ramet, first use the index finger and middle finger of the left hand to reach into different parts between the leaf bundles, the thumb rests on the edge of the basin, the remaining two fingers hold the other end of the basin surface, hold it upside down, and gently knock with the palm root of the right hand around the basin surface. when you feel the mud stack and the pot loose, grasp the round hole at the bottom of the basin with your right hand and slowly lift the flowerpot, so that the mud stack and the flowerpot are separated from each other. Then put the mud pile on the side or sit flat on the ground (if there is not much root bending, you should pay attention to the sudden loosening of the mud pile, and the Langen is broken). If the root winding is closely intertwined and the mud pile is not easy to disassemble, you can gently pat along the periphery with the palm of the palm, gradually loosen the mud pile, or remove the soil with blunt-headed bamboo slices, then disassemble the coiled root system and wash it in clean water (such as tap water, it must be stored for many days and used after the disinfectant in the water is fully decomposed. It will not affect Langen) "then move it in a ventilated and shady place to let the water on the roots cool and dry. When the root is chalky white, choose the appropriate part and cut it vertically with a sharp blade or thin-cut scissors. At this time, you must be careful not to touch the young leaf buds at the base of the pseudo-corms (because the white leaf buds are very tender at this time. Easy to break at a touch). After separation, if the wound is small, it can be left to nature; if the wound is water-stained, it can be disinfected with potassium permanganate or nicotine sulfate diluent, or coated with sulfur powder to prevent bacterial infection from rotting. When splitting the "road", as long as the false bulbs on both sides are held and rotated gently, the connection will soon be separated automatically. At the same time, the dried pseudocorm and the small aging root system are cut off at the base of the pseudocorm. If there is a section of dry and empty root on the root, it can be cut off along the empty-solid junction (the end face of the solid root can not be cut so as to avoid the wound). If the root is too long, it can be cut between the branches, if there are no branches, it can be cut at the appropriate length, but it can not be planted until the wound is slightly dry. In general, the longer root system should be carefully transferred to the basin along its trend. As long as there are still a few short roots, the yellow-green aging pseudocorm without leaves can still be used for culture, and the new seedlings can continue to germinate at its base. The residue of dark-brown leaf marks is often attached to the pseudobulb, which should be torn off from the top to the bottom. According to the custom of Yilan in our country, each pot of bluegrass must have at least two tubes of grass before it can grow normally. If there is too little, the plant can not restore healthy growth quickly. Cymbidium and other plants have to leave more leaf bundles because of their strong metabolism. (3) cultivation and management of separated plants after ramets, flowerpots that are more tolerant than root extension should be selected before planting. If earthen pots are selected, attention should be paid to the size of holes at the bottom of the basin, such as too small, because Langen is aerial rooting, fond of ventilation and strong drainage environment, so make the holes bigger. If it is a special large bottom hole orchid basin, first cover half of the hole with two clam shells or broken tiles relatively parallel (a little slit should be left in the middle), and then increase layer by layer with similar materials to form a cone shape or round table shape (not more than 1/2 of the basin height). In addition, plastic gauze is also used to cover the holes at the bottom of the basin, on which a layer of fine stone particles or broken tiles and bricks the size of broad beans are scattered. Or use the fired ceramic multi-hole bowl to cover the hole upside down. There are also tapered mesh seats made of fine bamboo wire or thick lead wire in the basin bottom, covered with several layers of brown silk skin, but this method is rarely used because it is easy to rot for a long time and high cost. When the bottom of the basin is covered, first use a fine mud sieve to sift out the particles the size of soybeans, and scatter them on the top of the cover, usually so far as to cover. Then cover it with a layer of mud as fine as mung beans (about 1cm thick). Finally, pour into the orchid mud or loose sandy soil (the thickness depends on the root length and expansion trend), gradually add the mud by hand to form a cone or steamed bread, and then put the root system down, and make the distribution more uniform. After being seated, it is best to make the top of the pseudo-bulb and the base of the leaf bundle just about 0.5 cm under the mouth of the basin (if you want to do basin noodles such as steamed bread, you can be a little higher), and then, in the process of gradually adding mud, because the mud of the orchid is relatively loose, you must gently put the mud on time along both sides of the root with your fingers, not make the nest root, until there is no false bulb shallowly buried. Then press around the pseudo-bulbs and press slightly around the basin, but not too tight. Finally, hold the side of the basin with one hand and gently pat the edge of the basin with the other to make the soil in the basin even. If planted in the form of high basin surface (that is, the basin mud layer is half steamed bread arc), the leaf bundle base should be about two centimeters higher than the basin surface, gradually add mud to pile into an arc, and casually cover the above with muddy green grass (not too dense). After pasting, sprinkle some sparse dry mud on the green cloud grass and press it with the palm of your hand; if you use green cloud grass without mud, the cover mud layer should be thicker. The purpose of laying green cloud grass is mainly because it has dense fine roots, which can maintain the basin shape of loose humic soil during heavy rain or daily watering, so that it will not be damaged by erosion; in addition, it can maintain a certain humidity of the basin surface mud layer, and avoid high temperature burns to pseudobulbs and roots. At the same time, it also makes the basin surface feel green and plays a decorative role. After all the operation is completed, spray the basin surface with a fine-hole kettle until it is thoroughly sprayed. After waiting for a few minutes, use a narrow horn plate or an elastic bamboo sheet (about 15 cm long, 4 cm wide at the bottom, 0.2 cm thick, 3 cm wide and 0.3 cm thick, and slightly thinner on both sides and shovels) along the inside of the basin into the mud layer, press at an arc angle toward the center of the basin, so that the basin surface forms a semi-arc, leaving a finger wide water channel along the four edges of the basin surface, and then spraying water to make the semicircular mud pile higher than the basin surface symmetrical. After planting, insert the sign on the front of the basin to mark the variety number or write down the name. the sign can be made of chemical film (because it is not perishable and durable) and cut out in various forms, such as narrow strip, T-shaped, butterfly and so on.

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