The latest course on High-yield planting techniques of Taro

Taro, also known as green taro, etc., is the underground fleshy corm of taro, a perennial herb of Araceae, native to India and later introduced by Southeast Asia, South China and Japan. China has the most planting in the Pearl River Basin and Taiwan Province, followed by the Yangtze River Basin, and other provinces and cities. Let's take a look at the high-yield planting techniques of taro.

Planting conditions of Taro

1. Temperature: Taro needs high temperature and humid environmental conditions, and the large temperature difference between day and night is beneficial to the formation of corm, and it is the most suitable for corm formation at 28: 30 ℃ in daytime and 18: 20 ℃ at night.

2. Moisture: both water taro and dry taro like the humid natural environment, the dry taro growth period requires soil moisture, and the water taro growth period requires a certain water layer.

3. Light: Taro is resistant to weak light, the requirement of light intensity is not very strict, it grows well under scattered light, and short-day conditions are required for the formation and expansion of corms.

4. Soil: water taro should be cultivated in paddy field, low-lying land or ditch. Although dry taro can grow in dry land, it still maintains the ecotype of marsh plants and should be planted in humid areas.

Variety selection of Taro

1. Red bud taro: the height of red bud taro plant is 90cm 100cm, the leaf is broadly ovate, and the petiole is lilac. The mother taro is large and nearly round, with 10 per plant, hypertrophy, thick skin, brown, fleshy white, bright red buds and a yield of 0.85 kilograms per plant. It contains more starch and has good quality. Fresh taro can be eaten or dried. Medium well done. The growing period is 210 to 240 days, the planting period is from February to March, and the harvest is from September to October, with a yield of 1500kg to 1700kg per mu.

2. White bud taro: the germination of white bud taro is white, the petiole is green, the leaf vein is light green, the petiole is yellowish green, and there is a slight purple halo near the leaf. The mother taro is round or oval, slightly curved, the daughter taro is oval or oblong, the terminal bud is yellow and white, and each plant has 15 seed taros. The yield per plant is 500g to 750g, the corm contains more water, the meat is fine and the quality is good, and it is precocious and resistant to storage. The yield per mu is 1250 kg, and the high yield can reach more than 1500 kg.

3. Nine-headed taro: the plant height of nine-headed taro is 80cm and 90cm. Leaf blade broadly ovate, petiole green. Mother taro and daughter taro clump, daughter taro slightly more, corm Obovate, brown, flesh white. The yield per plant is 1.5 kg, the meat is slippery and the taste is light. Vegetables are eaten and dried for medicinal purposes. Late ripening, the growing period is 270 to 300 days. The planting period is from February to March and harvested from November to December, with a yield of 2500 to 3000 kg per mu. The taste of nine-headed taro is slightly better than white taro and red taro.

4. Betel nut taro: the plant height of betel nut taro is 80cm and 150cm. The leaf is broadly ovate, and the petiole gradually changes from green to coffee red from bottom to top, until the leaf core. The bulb is long oval, dark brown, fleshy white with brown markings. The yield per plant is 2.5-3 kg. The moisture tolerance is worse and the storability is better than other varieties. Late ripening, the growing period is 240,280 days. The planting period is from February to March, and the harvest is from November to January of the following year. The yield per mu is about 3000 kg.

Planting techniques of Taro

1. Soil preparation and fertilization: Taro has a wide adaptability to soil, and it is suitable for clayey soil with rich and deep soil and strong water retention. After the ground is finished, ditch is opened according to 80cm 100 cm row spacing, the ditch is 50 cm wide and 35 cm deep, and then fertilized in the ditch. Taro needs a large amount of fertilizer and has a long growth period. First of all, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. 2000 kg of high-quality organic fertilizer and 60 kg of 48% potassium sulfate compound fertilizer should be applied per mu and ditched according to row spacing.

2. Sowing method: after drying for 3-4 days, the seeds without disease insects and without wound were arranged indoors, covered with 8-10 cm thick wet sand and kept at 20-25 ℃ at room temperature. After 20-30 days, the buds were 3cm long and 5cm long, and the ground temperature was stable at 10 ℃. Two planting ditches were opened on the border, with a distance of 30 cm and a depth of 7 cm. After enough water was poured into the ditch, the plant spacing was 33-40 cm, with 4500-5000 plants per mu.

3. Watering management: taro is not watered before emergence, the soil is kept moist in the middle and later stage, and drainage is paid attention to in the rainy season. 80 days after emergence, combined with watering, make a hole beside the plant to apply fertilizer. Taro avoid dry soil, yellow leaves, withered leaves in case of drought, but the soil is too wet and stagnant water is also detrimental to root growth. Make the soil moisture sufficient at the seedling stage, and avoid watering it. In the seedling stage, the soil is dry and wet, and drainage should be paid attention to in case of rain.

4. Medium ploughing and soil cultivation: taro seedlings should be combined with topdressing to kill the warm grass, ploughing and leveling the cultivation ditch at the end of the seedlings, and then cultivate the soil once for more than 20 days, 7 cm thick, twice in total. The purpose of soil cultivation is to inhibit the terminal bud germination and growth of son taro and sun taro, reduce nutrient consumption, make taro fully expand and produce a large number of adventitious roots, and increase the drought resistance of the plant.

5. Timely harvest: taro should be harvested in time after maturity. Early-sowing varieties in the Yangtze River basin are mostly harvested from early September to early October, late-sowing varieties are mostly harvested from late September to late October, and mid-late varieties are mostly harvested from the end of September to early November. Due to the needs of the market, harvesting can be appropriately advanced or delayed, but it should generally be finished before heavy frost to prevent taro from freezing damage.

6. The method of seed retention: Taro was selected from the high-yielding land with uniform growth, and the plant with the characteristics of the variety was selected as the seed plant, the corm should be withered and yellow in the aboveground, and the taro should be harvested in sunny days when the seed taro was fully grown. The size of the seed taro is related to the type, it is suitable for the multi-seed taro category to be 25 grams 50 grams, the minimum should be more than 15 grams, and the taro type should be more than 25 grams.

Disease and pest control of taro

1. Taro blight: it is mainly to prevent taro blight, and the drug can be used in the middle of May before the disease. protective fungicides such as mancozeb can be used alternately and sprayed once every 7 days, such as Metalaxyl, Metalaxyl and Anke. When spraying, you should master the weather, choose to spray before the rain, and spray the liquid evenly on the back of the leaf, leaf surface and petiole.

2. Soft rot: strengthen the management of fertilizer and water, pull out the diseased plants and take them away in time, and spread lime around the disease points at the same time. Agricultural streptomycin and chlorothalonil can be used to irrigate the root, and they can be applied once before fertilization, after soil cultivation and after cutting taro. At the same time, agricultural streptomycin should be added every time in the areas where the disease is serious all the year round, so as to strictly prevent underground pests and control water.

3. Taro dirty class disease: taro dirty class disease can be prevented and treated with chlorothalonil and methyl thiophanate at the initial stage of the disease, and sprayed again every 7 to 10 days.

4. Aphids: aphids suck juice on the back of leaves or tender leaves with adults and nymphs, which can be sprayed with dimethoate and imidacloprid pesticides.

5. Spodoptera litura: generally, Kung Fu or Lesbon, imidacloprid and Regent are sprayed and killed before the 3rd instar of the larvae.

6. Underground pests: combined with two heavy fertilizers, phoxim, Milol or trichlorfon can be selected for control.

7. Red spider: spray 1500 times monocrotophos or 800 times 40% omethoate or 800 times dicofol.