The latest course of planting techniques and methods of Chinese Chestnut

Chinese chestnut, also known as chestnut, Chinese chestnut, is a plant of the genus Fagaceae, native to China, distributed in Vietnam, Taiwan and Chinese mainland, growing in 370mur2800m above sea level, mostly in mountainous areas, and has been widely cultivated.

Growth characteristics of Chinese Chestnut

Chinese chestnut has a wide range of adaptation to climatic and soil conditions. The suitable annual average temperature is lO.5-21.8 ℃, which is too high, lack of hibernation, poor growth and development, and is easy to suffer frost damage if the temperature is too low. Chinese chestnut not only likes the soil moisture, but also afraid of the sound of rain and waterlogging, if the rainfall is too much, the soil is stagnant for a long time, it is very easy to affect the root system, especially the growth of mycorrhiza. Therefore, it is not suitable to develop chestnut garden in low-lying areas prone to waterlogging. Chinese chestnut is sensitive to soil acidity and alkalinity, so it is suitable to grow on slightly acidic soil with PH value 5Mel 6. This is because chestnut is a high manganese plant, which can activate manganese, calcium and other nutrient elements under acidic conditions, which is beneficial to the absorption and utilization of Chinese chestnut. Xuzhou area is located on the southern edge of Huangtan, with an annual average temperature of 13.7-14.1 ℃ and an annual precipitation of 782-946 mm, which is suitable for the growth and development of millet trees.

Cultivation and Management techniques of Chinese Chestnut

1. Chestnut garden selection. The sandy loam with low groundwater level and good drainage should be selected in chestnut orchard. Avoid saline-alkali soil, low humidity is easy to waterlogging, windy places to plant. In order to open up the millet garden in the hilly land, we should choose the areas near the mountains with gentle terrain and thick soil layer, and then gradually expand to the areas with poor conditions.

2. Variety selection. The varieties should be selected mainly by the excellent varieties selected locally, such as Paoche No. 2 and Chen Guo No. 1, and the varieties such as Shifeng, Jinfeng, Haifeng, Qingmao soft thorn and Jushuhong should be introduced appropriately. According to different edible requirements, fried chestnut varieties should be given priority to, and excellent Chinese chestnut varieties should be properly developed, taking into account not only the export of foreign trade, but also the needs of the domestic market. At the same time to achieve a reasonable mix of early, middle and late varieties.

3. Rational allocation of pollination trees. Chestnut trees mainly rely on the wind to spread pollen, but because chestnut trees have heterogeneity of male and female flowers and self-fruiting, a single variety often produces empty buds due to poor pollination. So the newly built chestnut orchard must prepare 10% pollination trees. Practice has proved that it is better to use summer red as pollination tree in Xinyang City.

4. Reasonable close planting. Reasonable close planting is the basic measure to increase the yield per unit area. 40 plants per mu of plain chestnut orchard and 40 trees per mu of mountain chestnut orchard are suitable. It is planned that 111 trees can be planted in dense planting chestnut orchard per mu, and then thinning will be carried out step by step.

5. Rational fertilization. Rational fertilization is an important basis for high yield of chestnut orchard. Base fertilizer should be based on soil and miscellaneous fertilizer, in order to improve soil, improve the ability of soil fertilizer and water conservation, and provide more comprehensive nutrient elements. It is better to apply in autumn after fruit harvest, when the temperature is higher and the fertilizer is easy to mature; at the same time, it is in the period of new root occurrence, which is conducive to absorption, thus promoting the accumulation of tree nutrition and has a good effect on the differentiation of female flowers in the coming year. Topdressing is mainly based on available nitrogen fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, the time of topdressing is in early spring and summer, 0.3 kg urea per tree in spring and 2 kg urea per tree in full fruit stage. After catching up, it should be combined with watering to give full play to the effect of fertilizer. Summer topdressing is carried out from late July to mid-August. At this time, the application of available nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer can promote the enlargement of the fruit grain, the fullness of the pulp and improve the fruit quality. Extra-root topdressing can be carried out many times a year, with emphasis on doing a good job twice. For the first time, when the basal leaves of branches changed from yellow to green in early spring, 0.3% Mel 0.5% urea and 0.3%-0.5% borax were sprayed. Its function is to promote basic leaf function, improve photosynthesis and promote canned flower formation. The second time is one month and half a month before harvest, lO sprays 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate twice in 15 days, the main function is to improve photosynthetic efficiency, promote the transfer of nutrients in leaves and other 12 organs to the fruit, and significantly increase the weight of a single grain.

6. Irrigation. Chinese chestnut prefers water. Generally, irrigation once before germination and during the period of rapid fruit growth is beneficial to the normal growth and development of fruit trees and the improvement of fruit quality.

7. Shaping and pruning. Chestnut pruning is divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. Winter shearing is carried out from deciduous leaves to the following spring germination, which can promote the growth of millet trees and the formation of female flowers. The main methods are truncation, thinning, retraction, slow release, branch pulling and scratching. Summer pruning mainly refers to sprouting, coring, male removal and branch thinning in the growing season, and its function is to promote branching, increase female flowers, increase seed setting rate and single grain weight.

① is short. Cut off part of the annual branch. Short cutting can promote branching, enhance tree potential, compact crown, reduce male flowers, and adjust the distribution of nutrients. Delayed pruning can be used for prosperous trees and branches and cut short after sprouting.

② retracts. It's a short cut for perennials. It is mainly used for perennial branches where the growth is weak, the fruiting part moves outward and the inner chamber is bald seriously.

③ thinning branches. That is, the opposite branch, the light branch and the slender branch of the inner chamber are removed from the base.

④ wears a hat and shears. Winter truncation was carried out near the new wheel marks with different times of coring. Leaving 2-4 small buds on the new wheel marks is called wearing a live cap to prune. If handled properly, the small buds on the cap and the big buds under the wheel marks can bear fruit branches. It is called wearing a dead hat to prune the buds without leaving buds on the new wheel marks, so that the big buds will bear fruit under the wheel marks. In general, those with weak branches wear dead hats and those with strong branches wear live hats.

⑤ slows down. Slow release means no cutting. The main function is to disperse nutrition and ease the tree potential. Slow pruning is often used for prosperous trees.

⑥ scratches and scratches. For the strong and prosperous auxiliary branches without coring in the crown, the sap was flattened during the period of sap flow to bud opening in spring, and scratched above the buds that needed to germinate to make them produce strong branches, and then the slowly flattened branches were retracted to the part of the strong branches when they were pruned in winter.

⑦ picks the heart. When the new shoot grows to 30 cm, the top of the new shoot is removed. Mainly used in strong branches, the purpose is to promote branching and early fruit. Pick the heart 2-3 times a year. The new shoot of the fruiting branch of the first fruiting tree is long and prosperous, and when the front shoot of the fruit grows, 3-5 buds are left to pick the heart. After coring, the front shoot of the fruit can form about 3 robust branches, increase the proportion of fruit-bearing branches, and slow down the outward movement of fruit-bearing parts.

The male was removed by ⑧. Leave only a few male inflorescences on the branches and remove the rest. Its main function is to control nutrition, promote the formation of female flowers and improve the strength of fruiting.

8. Flower thinning, fruit thinning and pollination. Sparse flowers can be directly removed by hand after the small flowers, inferior flowers, as far as possible to retain the husband's large flowers, good flowers, generally each fruiting branch to retain 1-3 female flowers. It is best to use fruit thinning shears, leaving a single bud on each Internode. When thinning flowers and fruits, we should grasp the principle of leaving more on the outside of the crown and less in the inner chamber. In artificial pollination, varieties with good quality, large grains, early heating period, astringent skin and easy peeling should be selected as pollination trees. When the anthers of the male inflorescences on a branch or most of the flower clusters on the male inflorescences have just changed from green to yellow, spread the collected male inflorescences on glass or clean white paper before 5 o'clock in the morning, put them in a dry and windless place and turn them twice a day. Put the fallen pollen and anthers into a clean brown bottle. When the multifid stigma of three female flowers in an involucre extends completely to reverse curl and yellowing, use a brush or a pencil with a rubber head to dip pollen on the reversing stigma. If it is inconvenient to dip in tall trees, you can use gauze bag shaking method or powder spraying method, according to 1 part of pollen and 5 parts of potato powder filler ratio.

Harvest and Storage of Chinese Chestnut

1. Harvest. There are two kinds of chestnut harvesting methods, namely, chestnut picking method and milking method. The method of picking up chestnuts is to wait for the chestnuts to become fully hot, and then pick up the chestnuts manually after falling to the ground naturally. In order to facilitate the collection of chestnuts, weeds should be removed from the ground before the chestnut bud attacks. When harvesting, first vibrate the tree, and then pick up all the fallen chestnut and chestnut buds. Be sure to pick it up every morning and evening and store it as you pick it up. The advantage of chestnut picking method is that chestnut is full and full, high yield, good quality and strong storage resistance. The chestnut method is to gently knock down the mature chestnut bud with a bamboo pole in scattered batches, and then pick up the chestnut buds and chestnuts. Using this method of harvest, generally 2-3 days hit. When beating the bud, beat the twigs inward from the outside of the crown to shake off the chestnut bud, so as not to damage the branches and leaves. It is strictly forbidden to lay down all chestnut buds with different maturity at one time. The harvested chestnut bud should be treated with "perspiration" as soon as possible, because at that time, the temperature was high, the water content of chestnut was high, the respiratory intensity was high, and there was a large amount of fever. if the chestnut was not treated in time, the chestnut was easy to mildew. The treatment method is to choose a cool and ventilated place, spread the chestnut bud thinly, with a thickness of 20-30 cm, splash water and turn it over every day, cool "sweating" treatment for 2-3 days, and then carry out manual threshing.

2. Storage. Li Shi has three fears: first, he is afraid of heat, second, he is afraid of dry, and third, he is afraid of cold. At room temperature, chestnut rot mainly occurs within one month after harvest, which is called the critical period. 2-3 months after harvest, there is less decay, which is a safe period. Therefore, to do a good job of temporary storage before transportation or storage before kiln storage is the key to prevent chestnut rot. A relatively simple and convenient temporary storage method is to choose a cool and humid place and build a storage shed of corresponding size according to the number of chestnuts. The roof of the shed is made of bamboo (wood) poles and covered with Reed mats, surrounded by branches or corn and sorghum straw to prevent the sun and air-drying. The ground in the shed should be leveled and covered with river sand about 10 centimeters thick, and then mixed according to the proportion of 3-5 parts of sand. The chestnuts are stacked on top, with a height of 30-40 centimeters, and the sides of the pile are covered with 10 centimeters of wet sand. Begin to turn it every 3-5 days, and turn it every 5-7 days after half a month, and pick out the rotten chestnuts each time. In order to prevent air drying, we should also pay attention to sprinkling water and moisturizing.