The latest course of kiwifruit planting techniques and methods

Kiwifruit belongs to the genus Actinidia of the kiwifruit family, is a kind of deciduous vine fruit tree, rich in a variety of vitamins and nutrients, known as the "king of fruit". It has high economic value and cultivation value. It is suitable to be planted in mild climate, abundant rainfall, fertile soil, lush vegetation, deep, well-drained, moderately moist black humus soil, sandy loam and slightly acidic soil with pH 5.5-7.

Select suitable varieties

To Hongyang (Hongyang), Heywater, Bruno, Qingcheng No. 1, Qinmei, Miliang No. 1, Chuanyi No. 2, Chuanyi No. 3, Chuanyi No. 4 and so on.

Raising seedlings

1. Cultivation of rootstock seedlings.

1.1. Seed collection. Fully mature fruits were collected from the first ten days of September to the first and middle of October. After ripening and softening, squeeze the fruit together with the seeds, rub them in a gauze bag, separate the seeds from the pulp, then rinse repeatedly with clean water, and spread the washed seeds indoors to dry.

1.2, seed. Sand storage treatment: soak the seeds in 40-50 ℃ warm water for 2 hours, then soak in cold water for one day and night, and then sow seeds in sand for 50-60 days. Kiwifruit seeds are afraid of dry and wet in the process of sand storage, so they should be checked and turned frequently to prevent mildew.

1.3. Sow seeds. ① sowing time: generally, it is ideal to raise seedlings in areas above 800 above sea level, and sow seeds from mid-March to early April. ② sowing methods: first, the nursery land is selected in places with deep and fertile soil layer and good drainage and irrigation and transportation conditions; second, soil preparation is used as a box, sufficient base fertilizer is applied, sundries are removed, and the width of the box is about 1 meter, the seedbed is slightly suppressed, watered thoroughly, and the seeds stored in sand are sown with sand. After sowing, sprinkle a layer of fine river sand about 2-3 mm thick and cover it with straw, spray water on the straw or build a plastic shed. The third is to strengthen the seedbed management to ensure the cultivation of robust rootstock seedlings.

2. Cultivation of grafted seedlings

2.1. Grafting period. About 20 days before germination, that is, from mid-February to late March.

2.2. Grafting method. Mainly adopt single bud cutting and other methods, the specific methods are: select the scion with full growth and small pith, cut off the branch with a bud, 3-4 cm long. Choose the straight side to cut off the skin, the cutting surface is 2-3 cm long, the depth is to expose the xylem or slightly with xylem, and the reverse side of the cutting side is cut to a short oblique surface of about 50 degrees. Cut the rootstock at 10-15 cm above the ground, select a smooth downward cut, the length of the cutting surface is slightly longer than the cutting surface of the scion, and the depth is the same as the scion, peel the rootstock 2 and 3; then insert the scion, requiring the scion to be basically the same size as the rootstock; pay attention to the layer alignment of the rootstock, and then wrap it with plastic grafting film to expose the scion bud.

2.3. Management of grafted seedlings. First, 3-4 weeks after grafting, the buds begin to sprout, and the binding film can be removed after the new growth is basically aging. Second, after the survival of the abdominal grafted seedlings in spring and autumn, the anvil should be cut immediately, which is about 4 cm away from the interface. After the survival of bud grafting in summer, you can first fold the anvil and then cut the anvil. Third, timely removal of the sprouts on the rootstock is the key to survival. Fourth, the nursery land should often be ploughed and weeded, and be careful not to encounter the buds that have just been sent out when weeding. Fifth, after the budding and sprouting, it is necessary to set up a pillar next to the grafting bud and tie the new shoot to the pillar. Sixth, when the seedlings are 60 centimeters high, they should be properly coring. Seventh, combined irrigation can be applied into human manure, pig manure, etc., or 1% urea can be added to the water, and calcium superphosphate can be added to fertilize in July to promote the aging of seedling branches and full bud eyes. Eighth, kiwifruit seedlings from July to August take shading measures to avoid direct exposure to strong light.

Garden construction

1. Garden site selection

The root system of kiwifruit is fleshy and particularly fragile, not only afraid of waterlogging, but also afraid of high temperature and drought, new shoots are not only afraid of strong wind breaking, but also afraid of spring cold or low temperature freezing injury. Suitable for planting in subalpine areas (800-1400 meters above sea level), choose places with deep soil, fertile soil, loose texture, good drainage and convenient transportation to build a garden, such as cultivating kiwifruit in low mountains, hills or plains, we must have appropriate drainage and irrigation facilities to ensure that there are no stains in the rainy season and timely irrigation in the dry season. It is best to build windbreaks around the park.

2. Planting period

The best planting period in the southern producing area is from the defoliation of kiwifruit to the sprouting of kiwifruit in the early spring of the following year, that is, from early December to early and middle February, the earlier the better.

3. Configuration of pollination tree

Kiwifruit is a dioecious fruit tree, and the selection and allocation of pollinated male plants is one of the conditions to ensure normal fruit. The selection of male plants should be the same as or slightly earlier than the main varieties, with a large amount of pollen and a long florescence. The ratio of female to male plants is 6:1 or 5:1, with high yield and good quality.

4. Planting density

Generally, the planting density is closely related to the cultivation type. The planting density is 2m × 4m away from home, the T-shaped frame planting density is 3m × 4m, the planting density is about 56 trees per mu, and the planting density of flat-top scaffolding is 3m × 5m.

5. Setting up the bracket

Generally, scaffolds are set up in the winter of the same year after planting, which are divided into pillars (cement columns, wood columns, stone columns, bamboo columns and associated trees, etc.), beams (cement columns, wood columns, bamboo and metal, etc.), and the surface of the shed is made of iron wire. According to the local situation, wood frame, steel frame, concrete frame and accompanying tree frame are selected, and the frame type is mainly "Y" frame and "T" frame.

6. Planting frame type

There are three kinds of frames commonly used in kiwifruit production, which are hedge frame, T-shaped frame and top frame.

6.1, fence. The pillar is 2.6 meters long, 12 centimeters thick, 80 centimeters buried, and the ground is 1.8 meters high. Four lines of antirust iron wire are drawn on the shelf surface from bottom to top, and the first wire is 60 cm from the ground. A pillar is erected every 8 meters, and the branches are tied to the wire of the frame. This rack type is widely used in production.

6.2, T-shaped frame. A horizontal beam is arranged at the top of the upright pillar to form a T-shaped small bracket. The total length of the pillar is 2.8 meters, the total length of the beam is 1.5 meters, three high-strength antirust iron wires are drawn on the beam, the depth of the pillar is 80 cm, and the net height of the upper part is 2 meters, with a pillar every 6 meters.

6.3. Flat-top scaffolding. The frame is 2 meters high and there are pillars every 6 meters. The pillars in the whole garden can be arranged in a square. The pillar has a total length of 2.8 meters and is buried in 80 centimeters. The pillars around the scaffolding are connected by triangular iron or steel bar, and the pillars are drawn by thick and thin iron wire to form a flat-roofed scaffolding.

Cultivation and management techniques

1. Planting technology

1.1. Prepare the planting point. It is best to turn the garden 60-80 cm deep last autumn, determine the row spacing according to 6 × 4 m or 4 × 4 m or 5 × 4 m, dig a planting ditch or hole 60-80 cm deep and 80-100 cm wide, and evenly mix 50-100 kg of farm manure and 0.5kg of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other chemical fertilizers in each hole when backfilling topsoil, or add 1.5kg cruller to build a ridge or steamed bread-shaped mound 20-30cm above the ground.

1.2, variety configuration. Generally speaking, the female and male plants in the large orchard should be matched evenly according to 10-12:1, while the male plant in the small orchard should be matched at 8:1 or 6:1. The specific planting method is as follows: one male plant is planted every 2 female plants in the middle of every 3 rows.

1.3, planting period and method. (1) planting period: the planting period of kiwifruit is the same as that of other deciduous fruit trees, and can be planted in autumn and early spring. (2) planting method: if there are more plant stalks embedded in the fixed planting hole, it should be allowed to sink before planting. When planting, the seedlings should be placed in the center of the planting hole so that the roots do not come into direct contact with fertilizer. Stretch the root system around with your hands, and cover the root with fine soil, then cover it with soil, stabilize it slightly with your feet, and fill it with water. The planting depth should be flat or slightly higher between the root neck and the soil surface, and the grafting interface should not be buried in the soil.

2. Management technology

2.1. Soil management. (1) Deep ploughing and soil improvement: combined with the application of basic fertilizer, the fertilization ditch should be dug deeply outside the root system every year or every other year, which should be shallow in the canopy. At the end of pruning and clearing the garden, the soil outside the fertilizer ditch should be turned 20-30 cm deep. (2) Intermediate ploughing and weeding: the suitable tillage depth is 10-15 cm, shallow ploughing near the tree plate in spring, and shallow ploughing combined with weeding in summer from June to August, so as to loosen and aerate the soil and enhance the ability of moisturizing and drought resistance.

2.2, fertilization management. First, base fertilizer: after fruit picking from late October to late November, immediately dig an annular trench 35 cm deep and 30 cm wide around the tree plate or trench along the plant line, apply rotten organic fertilizer and add cruller and phosphate fertilizer, and then irrigate and cover the soil. 1500-3000 kg per mu of slag fertilizer, 150kg-200kg of cruller, 100kg-150kg of phosphate fertilizer. The second is topdressing before sprouting: from late February to early March, quick-acting fertilizer based on nitrogen fertilizer was applied, combined with irrigation, 6-10 kg urea per mu. Third, fertilization during the fruit expansion period: one week after flowering (from late May to mid-June), 100-150 grams of compound fertilizer and 6-10 kg of human and animal manure water were applied to each plant. Fourth, fertilization in the later stage of fruit growth: from late July to early August, fertilizers based on available phosphorus and potassium should be applied, and the application of nitrogen fertilizer should be controlled to avoid excessive growth of branches, with 200-250 grams of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer per plant. Fifth, extra-root topdressing: during full flowering and fruit setting, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or 0.2% urea was used for extra-root topdressing.

2.3. Water management. The root distribution of kiwifruit is shallow, it is not resistant to drought and waterlogging, and it is necessary to have high air humidity and maintain sufficient soil moisture for growth. First, before sprouting in spring, irrigation should be carried out in combination with fertilization, 25-30 kg per plant, 2-3 times depending on drought, 2-3 times during summer drought, and 3 times in autumn rain, ditching and drainage should be made in orchards or between rows of plants in time.

2.4, shaping and pruning. The main results are as follows: (1) the main types of plastic surgery are horizontal shaping of hedge frame, free fan shape of few main vines, T-shaped scaffolding and other tree shapes, mainly light cutting and slow release, strengthening pruning in the growing period, and slow potential to promote flower and fruit. (2) pruning ① summer pruning: first, remove the sprouting tillers from the rootstock and the sprouting branches from the trunk or the base of the main vine, and erase the rest except for reserve branches; second, when the spring shoot is semi-Lignified, the pruning fruit-bearing branches are coring at the 10th leaf or 7-8 leaves above the last fruit. The 15th leaf of the vegetative branch of the spring shoot is coring, for example, 3-4 leaves can be left on the secondary shoot, and the third is to remove the summer shoot that is too dense and too long to affect the fruit growth and the weak branches in the two new shoots sprouting between the axils of the same leaf; the fourth is to bend, twist and stretch the overgrowing new shoots in the young tree stage, control the overgrowth, and lay the branches flat in early August to promote flower bud differentiation. ② winter pruning is mainly thinning of unfruitful overgrown branches, overdense branches, overlapping branches, crossed branches, disease and insect branches, weak short branches, worthless sprouting shoots and non-regenerative fruiting branches. Results the strong vegetative branches in the same year were good fruiting mother branches in the coming year, with 8-12 buds truncated according to the growth and variety characteristics, less buds in the weak branches, more buds in the strong branches, and the most prosperous branches could be truncated after the 15th node. The fruiting mother branch, which has borne fruit for about 3 years, can be retracted to the base of the fruiting mother branch with strong branches and buds for renewal. Second, the fruiting branches were treated with 3-4 buds on the fruiting site, while the long and middle fruit branches could leave 2-3 buds on the fruiting site, and the short fruit branches were generally not cut. ③ was reserved for 5-8 buds truncated in regeneration shoots.

Pest control

First, the main diseases and insect pests are flower rot, anthracnose, vine blight, brown spot, fruit soft rot, Phytophthora blight, root rot and beetles, winged moths, flower bud maggots, fruit sucking armyworm, etc., mainly to strengthen management, strengthen tree potential, strengthen soil disinfection, strengthen prevention-based comprehensive control. Second, fruit sunburn mainly strengthens tree potential management and reasonable pruning. During the period of fruit growth and development (late August), bagging can prevent sunburn.

Harvesting and storage of kiwifruit

1. Harvest. In general, the solid content of kiwifruit is required to be more than 6.2%. Early-maturing kiwifruit varieties were harvested from late August to early September, late-maturing varieties were harvested from mid-September to early October, and delicious kiwifruit were harvested from the end of October to the first and middle of November, no later than dew frost. It is best to harvest every day after the dew dries in the morning to before noon. The temperature is high in the afternoon and the fruit is easy to get hot in the basket. After harvest, the fruits are generally packed by grades according to the size specifications, the first-class fruit weighs more than 100 grams, the second-class fruit of Chinese kiwifruit is 80-100 grams, the delicious kiwifruit is 70-100 grams, and the third-grade fruit is 50-80 grams.

2. Accelerate ripening. After kiwifruit harvest, there is a post-ripening process. The higher the concentration of ethylene in the environment, the faster the ripening. Therefore, 1000PPM ethephon can be used to soak the fruit to promote ripening, and appear on the market two weeks earlier. Can also be used for the thickness of 0.05 mm polyethylene film, a box of kiwifruit, the whole pile wrapped up, the use of ethylene released by the fruit to accelerate ripening.

3. Storage and preservation

3.1. Pre-cooling. Forced air cooling, cold storage cooling or water cooling can be adopted to reduce the temperature to or slightly lower than the storage temperature of 0-2 ℃. If cooled with water, it must be dried in time to eliminate moisture on the fruit surface.

3.2. Storage method. Kiwifruit can be stored at room temperature, low temperature and controlled atmosphere for short-term storage (1-2 months), medium-and long-term storage (4-6 months) and long-term storage (6-8 months), among which low temperature storage is the most widely used.

In commercial production, in order to soften the fruit and reach edible maturity, the fruit is generally placed at a temperature of 15-20 ℃, treated with 100-500ml ethylene for 12-24 hours, and then placed at a temperature of 15-20 ℃ for a week.