MySheen

The latest course on planting techniques and methods of raspberry

Published: 2024-12-23 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/12/23, Raspberry, also known as raspberry, etc., is a woody plant of the genus Rubus of Rosaceae. The fruit is a kind of aggregate fruit, which is red, golden and black. As a fruit in Europe and the United States, it is widely distributed in China but is little known. There are only a few in Northeast China.

Raspberry, also known as raspberry, etc., is a woody plant of the genus Rubus of Rosaceae. The fruit is a kind of aggregate fruit, red, golden and black. As a fruit in Europe and the United States, it is widely distributed but little known in China. Only a small amount of raspberry is cultivated in Northeast China, and it is relatively rare on the market. Let's take a look at the planting technology of raspberry.

Growth habits of raspberry

Raspberries like warm and moist, require scattered light with good light, not strict with soil, and have strong adaptability, but it is better from slightly acidic soil with fertile soil, strong water and fertility conservation and good drainage to neutral sandy loam, red soil and purple soil. The fruit is early and easy to enter the full fruit period. generally, the fruit can be seen in two years after planting, the yield is high in 3 years, the yield is the highest in 4 to 5 years, and the full fruit period can be as long as 15 years. The root system is shallow, not tolerant to drought, and the lack of water will inhibit the growth and fruiting. The flowering period is from April to May and the fruiting period is from June to July. Excessive soil water evaporation and insufficient water will affect the yield.

Propagation methods of raspberry

1. Root tiller propagation: the mother plant of raspberry root tiller propagation should keep the soil moist, loose and nutritious, select well-developed root tillers, keep the spacing between 10 cm and 15 cm, dig roots and tillers after autumn, dig deep, and retain more side branches. it can also be planted as soon as it is dug, and the garden can be built in spring the following year.

2. Cutting propagation: during the cutting propagation of raspberry, the lateral roots with a thickness of about 1 cm are dug out, the roots with buds are selected and cut into roots of about 10 cm, and the roots are cut in the middle of March, the ditches with a depth of 10 cm are dug, and the roots are obliquely inserted into the border bed. 1/4 is exposed outside the soil and buried flat.

3. Transplant propagation: raspberry transplant propagation from November to March every year, dig wild plants from the mountain woodland, cut off the basal branches, retain 20 cm long, be careful not to damage the dormant buds at the base. Then it was transplanted into a flat field with a distance of 25 cm and 2700 plants per mu. After planting, cover the soil firmly, pour fixed root water, cover straw hay and so on.

Planting techniques of raspberry

The main results are as follows: 1. The garden should be built on the land with shelter from the wind and the sun, loose soil, high content of organic matter, moist soil and not suitable for stagnant water. before the establishment of the garden, the garden should be ploughed and leveled, and 2000-4000 kg / mu of farm manure should be applied. The planting method is strip method, with row spacing of 2 meters and plant spacing of 0.4 to 0.8 meters. The size of the planting hole is 30 × 30 × 30 cm. Pay attention to protect the basal buds from damage when planting seedlings. After planting, flat stubble in time, leaving stubble about 20 cm, planting 2-3 plants per hole, to achieve the goal of high yield as soon as possible.

2. Soil preparation: when planting raspberry, select slightly acidic gentle slope land with deep soil layer, loose fertile soil and good drainage, turn the soil deeply, transplant according to the row spacing of 50 cm × 100 cm or 100 cm × 100 cm, apply sufficient base fertilizer before transplanting, and apply farm manure 3kg per plant.

3. Management: during the growth of raspberry, combined with loosening soil and weeding, topdressing was applied 2-3 times a year, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, with appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Apply seedling fertilizer in March, flower fertilizer in April, overwintering fertilizer in November, 15002000 kg of human feces per mu, and pay attention to watering during drought in summer and autumn. The weeds were ploughed and weeded twice from May to June and from August to September every year to reduce the consumption of nutrients and water by weeds so as to promote the robust growth of raspberry trees.

4. Picking buds: when the lateral branch occurs in the new branch from April to May, the terminal bud is removed to promote the growth of the lateral branch, at the same time, the heart of the lateral branch is removed to promote the secondary lateral branch, and the branch is leafy and luxuriant, which will increase the fruiting mother branch of the following year and increase the yield. Stand pillars next to each plant during the fruiting period to prevent lodging.

5. Bracket: raspberry branches are soft, often drooping to the ground, or easy to lodge in case of wind, affecting yield and quality. Therefore, a support is erected in the garden, and the biennial branches are tied to the frame to make the branches receive light evenly and maintain a good permeability in the garden.

6. Fertilizer and water: 2000-3000 kg of farm manure can be applied per mu every autumn and topdressing once during flowering and fruit development, in order to increase fruit yield and promote fruit expansion. Topdressing should be based on available nitrogen fertilizer, with 10-15 kg urea per mu each time. At the same time, borax and zinc sulfate are applied each 1 kg per mu to protect flowers and fruits. Do a good job of drainage and irrigation, timely watering in case of drought, to keep the soil moist. Remove stagnant water in time in case of heavy rain to prevent falling flowers and fruits.

7. Pruning: the dry part of the top of the two-year branch should be cut off in time in spring to make the remaining branches give off strong fruiting branches. Thinning the base is too dense and there are diseases and insect pests, leaving 7-8 biennial branches per plant, keeping a reasonable density, conducive to ventilation and light, and ensuring high and stable yield. After fruit picking, the biennial branches were cut off, and the tillers and overdense basal branches were removed to control the total number of branches in the garden.

8. Harvest: the harvest time of raspberries is from mid-May to early June, when the fruit is fully developed and green, and has not yet turned red. Harvest is carried out in batches, and after harvest, stems, leaves, receptacles and other impurities are removed. Then blanch it in boiling water for 2 minutes and then remove it, then spread it or dry. The finished product with intact grain, solid yellow-green color, sour taste and no pedicel leaf chips is preferred.

Pest control of raspberry

1. Stem rot

Stem rot is a serious disease that harms the basal branches of raspberry trees. Generally occurs on the new shoot, first from the new tip to the sunny side from the ground closer to a dark gray like scalded spot, about 1.5-5.5 cm long, 0.6-1.2 cm wide. The disease spot expands rapidly around, the disease part gradually turns brown, many small black spots of different sizes appear on the disease spot surface, the xylem turns brown and necrotic, with the expansion of the disease part, the leaves and petioles turn yellow and wither, and the whole plant dies in severe cases.

[prevention and treatment] ① cleaned the garden in autumn, cut off the diseased branches and burned them centrally to eliminate the pathogen. ② can be controlled by spraying from May to August. In the early stages of the disease in mid-May and July, the susceptible varieties were sprayed with 500 times of methyl topiramate or 40% of ethyl aluminum 500 times or thiram 500 times, respectively.

2. Powdery mildew

[harm] the susceptible leaves of raspberry are covered with a layer of white powder, which causes the leaves to distort or curl, sometimes the leaves do not show white powder, but show that the leaves have water-immersed spots. In severe cases, the growth of new shoots is dwarfed, and the fruit is sometimes infected.

[prevention and treatment] ① swept the garden before preventing cold in winter, and burned the diseased leaves and branches centrally to eliminate the pathogen. Before sprouting in early spring, after flowering and young fruit stage, ② was sprayed with 1000 times of methyl topiramate wettable powder, or 1000 times of 25% trimethoprim wettable powder, or 200 times of 50% sulfur suspension.

3. Plutella xylostella

The willow bat moth is the main pest of raspberry, which seriously affects the yield of raspberry in the second year. Most of the larvae of the willow bat moth began to decay into the new shoots in early July. generally, the entrance of the moth was 40-60 cm from the ground, and most of them ate downward. The larvae often came out to eat the phloem outside the borer, and most of them ate around for a week. the crushed sawdust and feces were glued together with silk, and the ring branches were attached together for a long time, so it was easy to find and identify, and the damaged branches were easily broken and withered and died.

[control] ① cut off the damaged branches before adult Eclosion in late August. The raspberry orchard with ② plants buried in winter to protect against cold can reduce the occurrence of this insect. ③ occurred in serious raspberry orchards, which could be sprayed with 2.5% deltamethrin 2000 × 3000 times during the active period of early instar larvae from late May to early June.

4. Piercing moth

[harm] the perforating moth mainly harms the red raspberry, and the autumn larva overwinters as a small cocoon under the base of the basal branch. During the leaf expansion period, the larvae climbed onto the new shoots, ate into the buds, ate the inside of the buds, and then drilled into the new shoots of raspberries, which were killed and died quickly. The adults Eclosion in the flowering stage and lay eggs in the flower in the evening. The larvae initially eat the berries, but soon transfer to the base of the plant to overwinter.

[prevention and control] ① swept the garden in autumn and burned the mother branches cut. ② sprayed 80% dichlorvos 1000 times or 2.5% deltamethrin 3000 times to kill larvae during leaf development in early spring.

5. Borer beetle

[harmful] adults of pests usually begin to eat tender leaves in spring, bite into flower buds, feed on stamens and nectaries, and the injured buds fall off or become deformed fruits. The adults lay eggs in the flowers, hatch the larvae after 8-10 days, and then drill into the fruit to eat, so that the weight of the killed berries is reduced and is easy to rot.

[control] the raspberry orchard with serious occurrence of ① was applied on the ground during the unearthed period of adults in late April, 2.5% trichlorfon powder 0.4kg plus 25kg fine sand. Raspberry orchards with light occurrence of ② can be controlled manually. When adults begin to harm flowers, they can shake fruit branches and make adults fall into appropriate containers and destroy them centrally. ③ collected the damaged fruits in time, and the shedding larvae were collected and destroyed.

 
0