The latest course on shaping and pruning techniques of Red Actinidia

Red kiwifruit is a variety of kiwifruit, which is different from ordinary kiwifruit in that its flesh is red. However, the nutritional value is even higher than that of kiwifruit, and the stress resistance is strong, the fruit is also relatively large, and now there is a certain planting area. When planting red kiwifruit, shaping and pruning is very important. So the editor brings you the shaping and pruning technology of kiwifruit with hearts today. Let's take a look at it.

1. The first year after planting

After a year of planting kiwifruit, a bamboo pole should be inserted next to the plant. Then select one of the strongest branches in the seedlings as a vine, and tie the main vine to the trunk to promote the main vine to grow upright along the bamboo pole. About 30cm should be fixed to avoid being affected by the wind. If there is a winding phenomenon in the main vine, then it should be untied in time. For the new shoots of Actinidia chinensis, can be cultivated into auxiliary branches, if the growth is strong, then it should also be fixed. Then remove the sprouting branches under the grafting interface, in the summer, it is very easy to grow, yo ah cut off in time. Then retain about 3 buds of the main vine in winter and remove all the excess branches from the base.

2. Pruning in the second year

After the next spring, select a strong new shoot from the plant and fix it on the trunk to allow it to grow upright. And it should be fixed every 30cm or so. When the new tip of the main vine becomes thinner and the leaf becomes smaller, it represents a decline in growth. At this time, it is necessary to do a good job of heart-picking, pinch off the top of the new shoots, let the new shoots stop growing for a period of time, and improve the accumulation of nutrition. Then when the new tip grows to about 35 cm beyond the shelf surface, guide it to grow to the other side to promote the formation of a new main vine.

3. Third year pruning

After the third year, the number of new shoots on the shelf will increase, so choose a strong branch on the main vine as the extension branch of the main vine and let it continue along the lead wire. When the branches and vines are entangled with each other, they should pick the heart in time. Then it should be pruned in time in winter, so that the main spread of long head back to their respective suitable growth range. Then keep the vigorous branches about 22 centimeters on both sides of the main vine and cut them to the full buds. Lay the foundation for the results of the second year. Properly retain the moderately growing branches, and then wind the main vine with lead wire to avoid overweight fruits and leaves, resulting in slippage.

4. Fourth year pruning

The T-shaped bracket should be used in the fourth year to ensure that the new tip can form a curtain after it is beyond the shelf surface. The plastic new tip of the greenhouse frame ensures that it can extend on the shelf surface all the time. Each main vine properly retained about 4 50cm-long lateral branches, and each side branch retained 4 strong growing and fruiting mother branches. If the growth space is sufficient, you can also retain an appropriate amount of mediocre branches and well-growing short branches. In the fourth year, the plastic work of Actinidia chinensis was basically completed, and the crown was gradually formed. Then the main vine should be properly equipped with suitable fruiting mother branches to promote the full fruiting period as soon as possible.

The above is a brief introduction to the shaping and pruning technology of red kiwifruit. For more information, please continue to follow us!