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Meat eaters how does Cordyceps eat insects? Is it harmful to people? Can I keep it at home? How do you plant it?

Published: 2024-12-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/12/22, Cordyceps sinensis, also known as water pot plant, monkey water bottle, monkey courtyard, pig cage, forget worry grass, annual herbs, no bulbs, flowering and fruiting throughout the year. How does Cordyceps eat insects? Is it harmful to people? Can I keep it at home? How do you plant it? According to the data of Castanopsis grossedentata

Cordyceps sinensis, also known as water pot plant, monkey water bottle, monkey courtyard, pig cage, forget worry grass, annual herbs, no bulbs, flowering and fruiting throughout the year. How does Cordyceps eat insects? Is it harmful to people? Can I keep it at home? How do you plant it? According to the data of Cordyceps sinensis, there are nectaries in the insectivorous capsule that can secrete nectar to lure insects. After the insects enter the capsule, the lid will not be closed, and the inner wall of the opening of the capsule is very smooth, which can prevent insects from climbing out. There is often half a bag of water in the bag. When there is too much water, the tendrils cannot bear the load and will automatically tilt and pour out part of the water. The medial wall of the lower half of the cyst is slightly thicker and has many digestive glands, which secrete slightly sticky digestive juice and stored at the bottom of the cyst. The digestive juice is acidic and has the ability to digest insects.

Is Cordyceps sinensis harmful to people?

Eating cordyceps is harmless to people. Because people often use Cordyceps sinensis to catch some insects and often plant them outdoors. When a bug approaches, the grass petal will bite, so that the worm can not move until it dies. Therefore, it can be said that eating Cordyceps sinensis is harmless, but beneficial.

Can you keep Cordyceps at home?

Cordyceps can be planted at home, but the ideal place is to grow it on the balcony. Some species of insectivorous plants such as flytraps and bottles need direct light from the sun. So in the room, the flycatcher will grow smaller and smaller because of the lack of light, and if it is red, the color will turn green, and eventually the whole plant will slowly weaken and lead to death. So if you want to grow indoors, it's best to know the habits of insectivorous plants at the right temperature (for example, cobra bottle grass, which can withstand about 34 degrees during the day when the temperature difference between day and night is large. If there is no temperature difference, 31-2 degrees should be considered to cool down, and the lowest temperature can definitely reach less than 5 degrees, and even if there is no temperature difference between day and night, its highest temperature can reach 38 degrees, and the lowest temperature can reach less than 5 degrees) so that the plant will not be killed.

How do you grow Cordyceps?

The suitable temperature for the growth of Cordyceps sinensis was 25: 30 ℃, 21: 30 ℃ from March to September and 18: 24 ℃ from September to March of the following year. The winter temperature must be no less than 16 ℃, the plants below 15 ℃ should stop growing, and the leaf edge should suffer frost damage when the temperature is below 10 ℃.

1. Temperature control: the lowest temperature for Cordyceps sinensis sowing should be above 15 ℃, and the lowest temperature for overwintering during the growing period should be more than 10 ℃. In the north, it is appropriate to winter in the greenhouse to avoid freezing damage.

2. Seedling raising mode: Cordyceps should be sowed and raised in seedling box or hole tray, which should be put into greenhouse or small bow shed to increase germination rate, but not in open field.

3. Selection and preparation of substrate: the cultivation substrate of Cordyceps sinensis should be relatively loose, fertile and strong water-holding capacity, or the seedling substrate sold in the market.

4. Matrix disinfection: the substrate should be disinfected when sowing Cordyceps sinensis to prevent the invasion of diseases and insect pests, the substrate should be dried and used, and the matrix should be soaked with disinfectant after sowing.

5. Sowing method: because the seeds of Cordyceps sinensis are small and inconvenient to operate, it is best to fix the seeds on the absorbent paper, one seed in a red circle, cut off the seeds together with the absorbent paper before sowing, clamp the absorbent paper with sharp-nosed pliers, and place them on the surface of the substrate. The suitable sowing rate is 1ml / hole.

6. Mulching: the seeds of Cordyceps sinensis have good light and need proper light to germinate better, so there is no need to cover after sowing.

7. Spray moisturizing: after Cordyceps sinensis sowing, the substrate should always be kept moist, water can be sprayed with fine mist or soaked from the bottom of the plate, the water should be used after disinfection with strong chlorine or parathion, and the relative humidity should be kept at about 90%.

8. Sunshade: Cordyceps is afraid of strong light, so it is not suitable for strong light after sowing and seedling stage, so it is necessary to use sunshade net to protect the growth of Cordyceps sinensis.

9. Seedling emergence: when the temperature and humidity are suitable, the fastest emergence of Cordyceps sinensis is only about 25 days, and the slowest seedling will only emerge after two months.

10. Disease prevention at seedling stage: the growth of insectivorous grass seedlings is relatively slow, so we should pay attention to preventing diseases and insect pests, pay attention to ventilation and ventilation in daily maintenance, prevent rain, and spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-1000 times regularly.

11. Transplanting seedlings: seedlings of Cordyceps sinensis can be moved into the basin for cultivation after growing up to 5 centimeters high. When transplanting seedlings, you must take root protection. It is best to plant a little deeper, one centimeter deeper than the original soil each time. It is best to carry out two transplants before pot culture, so that the seedlings are more robust, and the leaves are long and beautiful.

 
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