MySheen

Pruning methods of planting plum trees

Published: 2024-11-22 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/22, I remember that when I was a child, there were several plum trees in front of my house. At that time, every season when the plum trees bloomed, they were very beautiful. But with the continuous development of the rural economy, the plum trees in front of the house have long disappeared, and now many fruit growers have begun to do so.

I remember that when I was a child, there were several plum trees in front of my house. At that time, when the plum trees bloomed, they were particularly beautiful. But with the continuous development of the rural economy, the plum trees in front of the house have long disappeared. Now many fruit growers have begun to plant fruit trees in a large area.

The function and time of pruning

Pruning can adjust the relationship between fruit tree growth and fruit, maintain strong growth and fruiting ability, and maintain stable yield. Pruning of plum trees can be divided into summer pruning and winter pruning. Summer pruning is carried out in the growing season, so it is also called growing season pruning. Generally speaking, it can be carried out 3 times or 5 times:

After the first sprouting in spring, the main purpose is to erase the improper buds and the weak buds in the double buds, reduce the ineffective branches and save nutrients.

The second time is after falling flowers. Combine with flower thinning and fruit setting, remove dense branches and control competitive branches.

After the hard core for the third time, the vigorous and long branches were cut short to promote the growth of secondary shoots and increase the fruiting area.

For the fourth time, at the beginning of autumn and the end of summer, the extra auxiliary shoots were cut short or thinned, and the long fruit branches were coring to ease the vegetative growth and promote flower bud differentiation. Meticulous summer pruning can greatly reduce the workload of winter pruning, save tree nutrition, maintain tree balance, increase branches and promote flowering and fruiting. Winter pruning is carried out in the dormant period, that is, supplementary pruning is carried out on the basis of summer pruning, mainly to maintain the tree shape and balanced growth, to maintain the subordinate relationship among branches at all levels, and to regulate the balance between vegetative growth and reproductive growth. also known as dormant pruning.

Pruning methods of planting plum trees

1. Cut short. That is, cut off part of the 1-year-old branch. According to the different degree of short cut, it can be divided into light short cut, medium short cut, heavy short cut and extremely heavy short cut and so on. Light truncation, is to cut off the strong one-year-old branches, cut off about 1 beat 4, so as to ease the growth of branches, promote the growth of more medium and short branches, and cultivate all kinds of branch groups; medium and short truncation, is the cutting off 1-year-old branches of 1-year-old 1-year-old branches. The cutting mouth is selected to keep full buds to promote the growth of middle and long branches, which is mostly used to cultivate the skeleton of the tree and to cut off the main and lateral branches; heavy truncation, which is to cut off more than 1 / 2 of the weak one-year-old branches, to promote the growth of branches, to make the growth of the tree from weak to strong, and to use the renewal and pruning of the main, side branches and fruiting branches; extremely heavy truncation, which is to leave only 2 or 3 weak buds at the base of the branches for short cutting, promoting medium and short branches, for cultivating medium and small fruiting branches. After the one-year-old branches of plum trees are truncated, the growth strength of the branches varies according to the quality of the cutting buds, the location of the branches and the direction of extension. The erect branch with full and strong cutting buds is easy to produce strong branches after being cut short, which can be used to cultivate the backbone of the tree; on the contrary, it is easy to produce mediocre branches or weak branches, which can be used to cultivate fruiting branches. Under normal circumstances, short pruning is not conducive to flower bud formation, but moderate cutting of weak trees or branches can reduce the total number of branches and buds, improve tree nutrition, and be conducive to flower bud differentiation. Proper amount of shortening or shortening and middle fruit branches can increase the fruit setting rate.

2. Thinning. That is, the branches are thinned from the base. Proper thinning of overdense branches or branches in improper position can improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, save nutrient consumption, and be beneficial to flower bud differentiation. However, the number of thinning branches, especially the number of perennial branches, should not be too much at a time, so as not to cause excessive growth and affect the yield of the current year.

3. Shearing. That is to say, the retraction of the weakening perennial branches is conducive to the centralized supply of nutrients and promote the renewal and rejuvenation of weak trees.

4. Slow release. That is, some 1-year-old branches, do not carry out any pruning, but let it grow naturally, slow down the growth of the tree, which can promote flower bud differentiation. For the erect branch, it must be smoothed or sprained from the base first, otherwise the effect is not good. Slow-release branches, after blooming and fruiting, must be cleaned in time, or truncated, or retracted, in order to keep the tree shape intact and beautiful and conducive to fruit.

Cuttage seedling of plum tree

1. Build a nursery bed: build a plastic shed in the shade (bamboo, wood, grass curtain materials can be used), clean up the field in the shed, and make a cutting bed with fine river sand. The cutting bed was sterilized strictly with 0.5% potassium permanganate solution or 50% carbendazim or 70% topiramate or 58% mancozeb 500 part solution, and the spraying amount was on the surface of the wet sand bed. The temperature in the shed is kept at 20 ℃ to 28 ℃ and the relative humidity is not less than 70%. Since it is a softwood cuttage with leaves, the natural scattered light must be irradiated in the shed to facilitate the photosynthesis of the cuttings. The size of the shed depends on the number of seedlings raised. Generally, about 250 seedlings can be raised per square meter.

2. Collecting panicle strips: from the disease-free area, the young twigs of strong mother trees with leaves in the peak fruit period (cuttings in early spring can collect unsprouted branches of the previous year, with a thickness of about 0.7 cm) are used as cuttings, with a length of 10 cm to 20 cm. The upper part retains 2 to 3 leaves or 3 to 5 and a half leaves. The varieties of cuttings cut should not be mixed and should be labeled in time. Panicle strips are required to be semi-lignified and free from diseases and insect pests. The harvested ear strips are bundled into a handful every 50 to 100, and the part of the base about 2 cm long is immersed in ABT rooting powder No. 1 solution or 0.025% naphthalene acetic acid solution with a concentration of 0.005% to 0.01% for half an hour to 1 hour.

3. Cutting in time: sharpen the base of cuttings with a knife. Before cutting, punch holes in the cutting bed with a small stick, and then insert the cuttings into the holes with a cutting depth of 5 to 8 centimeters and plant spacing of 6 to 8 centimeters. Immediately water the cuttings and buckle the shed to moisturize in time.

4. Management after insertion: pay attention to the temperature in the shed, bed humidity, ventilation and light transmission, such as high temperature at noon, spray more cold water. Under the condition of ensuring the temperature and humidity required for cuttings, the water content of the cutting bed should be reduced as far as possible to prevent the seedlings from rotting. The callus began to produce 7 days after cuttage, and the cuttings began to root 15 days later. When the number of roots reached more than 10 and the average length of roots reached more than 5 cm, it could be transplanted.

Grafting seedling of plum tree

1. Rootstock selection: wild peaches, plums, cherries and other stumps can be cut or sawed as rootstocks at 6 cm from the ground (also according to the shape of the tree).

2. Scion selection: fully developed 1-year-old semi-lignified branches with full buds and no insect pests were selected as panicles, with a length of about 7 cm, leaving 5-7 buds as scions, and the collected scions were wrapped in wet cloth.

3. Method selection: generally, it is carried out before the rootstock buds germinate or when the buds begin to sprout without spreading leaves. The common splitting method is mainly suitable for thicker rootstocks. This method is easy to master, the interface healing is fast and firm, and the survival rate is high.

4. Grafting method: the rootstock was watered once the day before grafting, and then the cutting surface of the rootstock was flattened with a knife, then a split about 3 cm long was cut with a grafting knife or blade, and the lower end of the picked scion was also cut into a wedge-shaped surface slightly thicker on one side and about 3 cm in length on the other side, leaving only 2 buds. After sowing the slightly thicker edge of the scion outward and thin into the split and forming a layer, tie it tightly with a wide plastic strip, and bind the upper end of the scion with plastic film to prevent moisture evaporation and insect pests, such as dry bath and windy weather. You must use a transparent plastic bag, and after putting a small cotton ball that absorbs enough water inside, cover the part above the interface and tie the mouth of the bag tightly.

5. After management: generally, shearing anvil germinates earlier than folding anvil. But in summer, the shearing anvil must be cut 3-5 cm away from the grafting bud, leaving a few leaves on the rootstock, and then cut the rootstock 1 cm on the grafted bud after germination. After cutting the rootstock, you should wipe the buds in time, erase all the buds on the rootstock, leaving only the grafting buds. Seedlings should be watered at the later stage. At the end of September, when the grafted buds grew to 70-100 cm, all the grafted buds were coring, and stopped watering to promote the seedlings to grow thicker and mature, so as to improve the overwintering ability of the seedlings.

Now the management of this kind of fruit trees is different from that of us at that time, there were only a few trees at that time, so they were not well managed. Today's fruit farmers are growing in large areas, if there is no good management, it is difficult to have a high yield, so it is very difficult to make money!

 
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