MySheen

Mango planting technology

Published: 2024-11-05 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/11/05, Garden land: it is suitable to choose plain or hilly land with sunny, deep soil layer, convenient drainage and irrigation conditions. Orchard planning: arrange the drainage and irrigation system, road system and supporting facilities of the orchard according to the topography and geomorphology. Specification: planting 40 plants per mu, 5m-3.3m (row spacing)

Garden land: it is suitable to choose plain or hilly land with sunny, deep soil layer, convenient drainage and irrigation conditions. Orchard planning: arrange the drainage and irrigation system, road system and supporting facilities of the orchard according to the topography and geomorphology. Specification: planting 40 plants per mu, 5m-3.3m (row spacing * plant spacing) is more suitable. Fertilization: more thin fertilizer can be applied 6-8 times a year, mainly quick-acting liquid fertilizer. Irrigation and drainage: timely drainage in rainy days to prevent rotting roots. Pruning: proper shaping and pruning after planting.

Mango seedling planting method after years of practical experience, whether it is seedling breeding technology, or seedling planting technology, has a more mature planting process, let's learn more about it.

1. Seedling breeding techniques of mango

In the past, mango seedlings were mostly raised by the method of seed propagation (obtaining seedlings directly through seeds). The advantage of this method is that it is relatively simple, but its variability is large, and its hanging fruit stage is late (it usually takes 5 to 7 years to enter the flowering and fruit setting stage). At present, this method is mainly used for the breeding of green seedlings, which is generally no longer used in production.

1. Rootstock cultivation

(1) site selection

The nursery should be far away from the mango orchard, and there can be no old mango trees around. The advantage of doing so is that it can reduce the spread of diseases and insect pests, can better cultivate seedlings free of diseases and insect pests, and requires convenient transportation and convenient drainage and irrigation in the nursery.

Nursery land should also be selected with leeward to the sun, back north to south, sufficient sunshine and other conditions of gentle slope land, the groundwater level had better be less than 1 meter. Because the low-lying land is easy to gather cold air and form frost, at the same time, drainage is difficult, it is easy to suffer from waterlogging, so it is not recommended.

The best nursery land is sandy loam, and the ph value is between 5.5 and 6.5. Because of the poor water retention of sandy soil, mango seedlings are easily affected by drought and sunburn, and their later growth will be poor, while the disadvantage of clay soil is poor air permeability and drainage, and the soil is easy to harden, resulting in poor root growth and serious root injury at seedling initiation. The survival rate of planting is also lower.

Mango nursery is not suitable for long-term continuous cropping, otherwise the soil fertility of the nursery will decrease obviously, and the diseases and insect pests will be more serious, which is disadvantageous to the plant growth.

(2) seed treatment

Mango seeds are not resistant to storage, let alone dry in the sun. After ripe mango seeds are taken out of the fruit, they should be sowed immediately so as to ensure a better germination rate. The longer the mango seeds are removed from the fruit, the lower the germination rate will be. If long-distance transportation is needed, fresh fruit storage and transportation is recommended.

The seed shell of mango is thick, it is relatively difficult to germinate, and it is generally irregular, so it needs to be shelled and sown with kernels in order to germinate easily and neatly. When the mango seed kernel is removed, you can put it on the sand bed to promote germination, and then move it into the seedling bed after germination. The shelled kernels can also be sown directly in the field seedbed according to the specification of 15*20cm.

① sand bed for sprouting

The sand bed should be chosen in a cool place, and the sand thickness should be between 10 and 12cm. In the later stage, in order to facilitate management, the border width should be about 80 to 100cm. The sunshade net can also be covered on the nursery bed in the field nursery in order to prevent the direct exposure of the scorching sun and the erosion of rainstorm, which is more conducive to the normal emergence of seedlings.

② seed disinfection

Before sowing, mango seeds are recommended to be treated with 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800 to 1000 times before sowing. When sowing, it is best to put the seed on the sand bed, lay it flat one by one, and then cover it with fine sand. It is suggested that the thickness is about higher than the kernel 1cm, then pour it thoroughly, and finally cover the border with film, but pay attention to keep the soil moist.

③ split-bed transplantation

Generally, the seeds begin to protrude from the soil surface after a week or so, and the seedlings basically emerge after about 2 weeks. The seedlings are purplish red at the beginning, and generally can be transferred in separate beds when the leaves are not yet unfolded, and the survival rate of the transferred seedlings is generally the highest. The transplanting specification is suggested to be 15*20cm, according to which about 8000000 seedlings can be raised per mu. When transplanting seedlings, it is best to take out the seedlings together with the kernels and implant them into the seedbed, while the polyembryonic seeds must be carefully divided. In order to facilitate the later management and improve the growth uniformity of seedlings, the seedlings with the same growth must be selected for transplanting in the same nursery bed, while the weak seedlings must be cultivated in the same nursery bed. The root system must be extended when transplanting. If the main root is too long, the main root can be truncated properly to promote the lateral root, and cover the root neck of the seedling if covered with soil.

In order to facilitate the later management, help the seedlings to come out of the nursery and improve the survival rate of planting, it is suggested that nutrition bags should be used to raise seedlings. The specific operation method is as follows: a black film bag with a diameter of 20 to 24cm and a height of about 25cm is selected and loaded into nutritious soil (formula: 2paddy field soil mixed with 1ram 3 rotten farm manure), and then the seedlings are transferred into the nursery bag. The management method is basically the same as the seedbed management.

④ nursery management

(1) shading and sun protection. The season of transplanting seedlings is the season of hot and scorching sun, so it is best to use a shade net of 50% Mel and 60% as a shade to prevent sunburn. When the seedlings grow steadily for 1 month, the sunshade net can be removed.

(2) Fertilizer and water management. The soil must be kept moist after transplantation. when the weather is dry, water must be drenched once or twice a day until the seedlings resume growth and then gradually reduce the number of times of watering. When the plant begins to pull out the new shoots, it can be applied with dilute fecal water or 1% urea solution. It is generally necessary to apply fertilizer twice for each shoot shoot to promote the rapid growth of seedlings. In order to prevent soil consolidation, it is also necessary to loosen the soil, weed, and cover the border with organic matter (rice straw, mountain straw or rotten soil fertilizer, etc.).

(3) Prevention and control of diseases and pests. Spodoptera litura mainly harms new shoots at seedling stage. Insecticides such as trichlorfon or omethoate should be sprayed every 7 to 10 days when new shoots sprout to mature. Disease prevention can be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, or other fungicides.

(4) grafting of seedlings. When the rootstock is cultivated to 1 to 1.2cm in diameter (that is, when the height from the ground is about 15cm), grafting can be carried out. Temperature and humidity are one of the main factors that determine the survival of grafting. Generally, when the temperature is lower than 20 ℃, the seedling growth will be weakened. The survival rate of grafting decreased with the decrease of temperature, and could not survive in severe cases. On the other hand, too high humidity is easy to cause disease, resulting in scion death or rootstock withering, seriously affecting the seedling rate. Grafting can be carried out when the sap begins to flow and the bark is easy to peel off. If it is in Guangzhou, May to September is the most suitable season. There are many operation methods of grafting, mainly according to the size of the rootstock, the smaller rootstocks can be cut or split, while the thicker rootstocks can be grafted with patch buds.

The choice of scion: generally, on the better mother tree, the disease-free and pest-free, full and protruding terminal buds or lateral buds on the old mature branches of the annual and sunny parts are selected as scions, which has a high survival rate and strong seedlings. After the scion is harvested, the leaves are cut off and put into a plastic film bag to moisturize and avoid the sun. It is recommended that you pick it up and store it in a cool place with wet sand if it is a spare. If long-distance transportation is needed, it should be wrapped in wet paper and placed in a plastic bag to moisturize.

The method of grafting:

① patch budding method

This method has the advantages of good healing, high scion utilization and easy replacement, so it is widely used by many mango growers. The specific method of grafting is as follows: in the trunk where the rootstock is about 30cm from the ground, choose a cross-cut in the flat and smooth part, and then cut one knife longitudinally in the left and right direction, the depth and even the formation of the layer. When the position is opened, the cortex is peeled off and removed to form a rectangular bud with a width of about 0.6cm and a length of 1.5 to 2cm. The size of bud grafting is determined according to the size of seedlings. Then cut the bud piece which is slightly smaller than the bud graft (the method is the same as the rootstock), then open the bud graft cortex and put the bud piece in the middle, but be careful not to invert the bud piece. After it is completely grafted, the bud graft is wrapped and sealed with plastic film, and the rootstock above the grafting position is cut off step by step after survival. this method can also be used for high grafting.

② splicing method

Some growers also call it splicing. This method of rootstock thickness can be used, generally cut off the upper part of the rootstock 25 to 30cm from the ground, and then split the interface between 1.5 to 2cm in the middle, then cut the scion into a wedge with the same section on both sides and insert it into the split of the rootstock, the cambium of the scion and the rootstock should be aligned (at least on one side), and finally wrap it tightly with plastic film, which is characterized by firm healing and high survival rate.

③ splicing method

The thickness of the rootstock can be carried out. When grafting, cut off the upper part of the rootstock first, and then cut it vertically between the xylem and bark of the cross section, about 1.5cm length, the scion can be single-bud or multi-bud. Then the lower side of the rootstock is cut into a section slightly longer than that of the rootstock, and the lower end of the cutting side is cut into an angle of 45 °, and then the two cutting planes of the rootstock are closely attached to make the two layers align. Note: if there is a difference in the size of the anvil and scion, there should also be a formation layer on one side. Finally, wrapped with plastic film, this method is easier to do than the first two methods, and the survival rate is also very high.

④ joining method

First cut off the upper part of the rootstock (30cm off the ground), and then cut a corresponding slope at the base of the scion and the top of the rootstock. The scion and the rootstock should be the same size and wrapped tightly at the interface. Because of the whole branch butt grafting, the healing material between the two xylem is difficult. Therefore, the withering rate is high, and the wind resistance is poor. At present, this kind of grafting method has been basically eliminated.

⑤ connection method

The characteristic of this method is that the scion is not separated from the mother before it survives. Generally choose a well-developed, smooth branch, cut a long 5cm or so, deep to the xylem of the cutting surface, in the rootstock also cut a corresponding cutting surface, and then the two are aimed at the cortex, and then tied tightly with plastic film. After the two sides are fully healed, cut the scion below the interface, and cut off the part above the interface of the rootstock to form a new plant. This method is easier to survive because the scion does not fall off the matrix before survival, but when the mother tree is tall, it is more laborious and there are more scions.

⑥ circle branch

The circle branch is also called crimping. Generally, the branches of superior varieties which are more than two years old are selected, the width of which is about 5cm, the cambium is scraped, and the rooting materials with strong moisturizing ability and rich nutrients are wrapped in the girdling area to promote the lower end of the branches to germinate new roots and become a new plant. The advantages of circle branches are high survival rate, fast seedling formation and easy to master technology, but the propagation coefficient is low, so it is more suitable for branches that are too dense between plants or need to be pruned.

(5) Management of grafted seedlings.

Unbinding and patching of ①

Generally choose grafting special film belt, do not unbind after grafting, the bud can generally wear out on its own. Commonly used plastic bandage, when the bud eye full protruding, it is necessary to remove the bud part of the plastic belt, let it protrude naturally, and then unbind when the bud grows new shoots. When unbinding, use a knife to gently cut the plastic tape on the back of the interface, do not go near the interface, do not cut to the skin. Note: plants that do not survive should be regrafted in time.

② cutting anvil

If the plants grafted with patch buds have survived, cut the rootstock from 4 to 5cm on the bud grafting position to promote bud germination.

Sprouting by ③

It is easy to extract a large number of leaf tiller buds from the base of the rootstock or above the scissors, which must be removed in time so as not to compete for nutrients between tiller buds and grafted buds and affect the germination of scions.

④ fertilizer and water management

After budding, the soil should be kept moist and properly watered. After budding, apply quick-acting chemical fertilizer thinly, and then apply fertilizer on each shoot, and pay attention to prevent heart insects from harming new shoots.

⑤ seedlings come out of the nursery

The quality of the work out of the nursery is directly related to the survival of planting and the growth of young trees. Seedlings with diseases and insect pests and young shoots should be suspended from the nursery.

Out-of-nursery time: the out-of-nursery time depends on the planting time. There are two periods of mango planting, that is, spring planting and autumn planting, so the seedlings come out of the nursery in spring and autumn. Spring comes out of the nursery from early March to early May, when the temperature gradually picks up, Rain Water is more, which can not only save water labor, but also suitable for the requirements of seedling growth, so transplanting is mostly carried out in spring. Planting in autumn (August to September) because the weather is dry and the sun is fierce, the survival rate is slightly lower than that in spring. Choose to plant after typhoon rain.

Seedling out-of-nursery specifications: the seedlings should meet the auxiliary specifications, and the seedlings should have the following three points: strong growth, reaching a certain height and thickness; good healing of the graft interface; no serious diseases and insect pests, especially quarantine diseases and insect pests.

Raising seedlings: there are two ways to raise seedlings, that is, to raise seedlings with soil. Before the emergence of seedlings, the soil training of the seedlings should be fully moist to reduce root damage. Seedling raising should be carried out on a sunny day. The diameter of the mud mass should be 15cm wide and high 20cm. Immediately after the seedling is raised, it should be wrapped with straw or film bag, and then cut off the leaves and new shoots that have not turned green. Seedlings are raised without soil. Seedlings should be soaked with water before seedling emergence without soil, so that more fibrous roots can be retained when seedlings are raised. After seedling emergence, the leaves and new shoots of 2Comp3 should be cut off, and then the roots should be dipped in thin mud to protect the roots, and the roots should be covered with thin film to moisturize. According to the convenience of the work, several plants are tied up into a bundle. The stack of long-distance transportation should not be too high and too dense, and should be shaded to prevent heat. This kind of seedling is only suitable for transplanting in spring.

The seedlings bred in the nutrition bag are not limited by the breeding season, the planting is convenient and the survival rate is high.

II. Establishment and planting of gardens

1. The choice of garden land.

Although mango is a kind of fast-growing, premature and adaptable fruit tree species, it is not very strict to the soil, but it can not grow well everywhere, and it needs certain external conditions. in order to give full play to its fast-growing, premature, high-yield, high-quality characteristics.

Since the growth of mango requires plenty of sunshine, like warm and avoid frost and low temperature environment, then the garden should be built in sunny, deep soil, convenient drainage, irrigation conditions of the plain or hilly land. At the same time, in order to facilitate the management and reduce the cost in the future, the traffic conditions and facilities of the garden should be considered.

2. Orchard planning

Do a good job in the infrastructure construction of the land, arrange the drainage and irrigation system, the road system and the supporting facilities of the orchard according to the topography and geomorphology (such as tools and fertilizer warehouses, field fertilizer heap and retting ponds, chemical storage and preparation workshops, dormitories, fruit treatment workshops and warehouses, etc.), divide the planting area, and set up protective forests at the location of the tuyere. In the case of hilly slopes, equal height holes should be determined or terraces should be built according to different slopes, so as to achieve the purpose of water, fertilizer and soil conservation.

3. Preparation of planting holes.

The specifications of planting holes can be treated according to different soil quality. If the soil is deep and loose, the planting holes can be dug shallowly, and the lower soil potential can even be planted with piers; if you plant on clayey soil or shallow soil with hard gravel, you must dig holes for planting, the general hole size is 100cm*100cm*60 to 80cm (long * wide * deep). When backfilling the soil, the weeds should be placed at the bottom of the hole, and the topsoil and subsoil should be mixed with the same amount of mature organic matter fertilizer. The fertilizer for each planting hole is 25 to 30 kg of organic fertilizer, 1 kg of lime and 1 to 1.5 kg of phosphate fertilizer. The backfill soil surface should be 20 to 30cm higher than the ground, and the organic fertilizer in the planting hole should be mature and the soil subsidence should be stable before colonization.

4. Planting specifications

Mango is a kind of fast-growing and fast-growing tall tree fruit tree. The branches grow rapidly and the crown forms very fast. When planting the four-year-old mango, the coverage of the crown has reached 6.5 square meters. If 50 trees are planted per mu, almost all the six-year-old trees will be closed. Therefore, in the establishment of the garden, the planting specifications should be considered from the perspective of economic cultivation. Too sparse planting will affect the early yield per unit area and waste space; too dense planting will cause early canopy closure, which is not conducive to ventilation and light transmission, and is easy to breed diseases and insect pests. affect yield and quality, and increase management difficulties. Therefore, in order to make the fruit with high yield, good quality and convenient management, the planting specification should be established on the basis of economic cultivation. It is more suitable to adopt different planting specifications according to different varieties, and it is more suitable to plant 40 plants per mu, that is, 5m-3.3m (row spacing * plant spacing).

5. The layout of varieties

Variety selection is directly related to the success or failure of mango commodity production. Not only the quality and marketability of the fruit should be taken into account, but also whether the selected variety is suitable for the ecological conditions of the region and whether the yield can be obtained stably after planting. At the same time, the collocation of early, middle and late maturing species should also be considered. At present, there are many mango varieties introduced in various places, but most of them can not adapt to the low temperature and rainy weather in South China, resulting in low and unstable yield and lack of economic cultivation value. Through practice, the varieties which are more suitable for cultivation in Guangzhou are Zihuamang, Guixiang Mang, Yuexi No.1 Awn, Hongmang 6 and newly introduced Jinhuangmango, which have the characteristics of late flowering and moderate ratio of bisexual flowers. it is easier to get a stable yield.

6. The method of planting

In order to improve the survival rate of planting, in addition to the quality of seedlings (including seedling quality), we also need timely planting and pay attention to planting methods. In general, the planting period of Mangcha is suitable in spring, when the cold wave has passed, the air temperature has obviously risen, the air humidity is high, and the new buds of fruit seedlings have not yet been exposed, the survival rate is high (from March to May is the most suitable). Autumn planting temperature is high, easy to tip, but dry, sunshine is strong, transpiration is large, should choose to plant when there is autumn rain, in order to improve the survival rate.

There are two kinds of mango seedlings with soil and bare roots. The seedlings with soil are easy to survive and grow quickly; if the bare-root seedlings pay attention to the seedling quality, the roots are stained with mud, keep the roots moist during transportation, and strengthen the watering management after planting, the survival rate will still be very high. No matter what kind of seedling it is, each leaf should be cut off 2 × 3 in order to reduce water transpiration and maintain the physiological balance between aboveground and underground parts, which is beneficial to survival. When planting, the seedlings should be placed in the middle of the planting hole, be careful not to break the soil ball with soil seedlings, cultivate fine soil around the soil ball, and cultivate the soil depth to the root neck. After planting, it should be drenched with fixed root water, and the frequency of watering should be determined according to the weather conditions. When the weather is clear, sprinkle with water every 2 to 3 days to keep the soil moist until the plant returns to normal growth.

III. Management of young trees

1. Fertilization, drainage and irrigation

The root system of young trees is not developed enough, fertilization should be a small amount of times, that is, the so-called "thin fertilizer", in order to reduce the waste of fertilizer and the loss of nutrients. Fertilizer can be applied 6 to 8 times a year, and the fertilizer is mainly quick-acting liquid fertilizer. In places affected by low temperature, fertilizer should be stopped in November so as not to promote tender shoots and affect overwintering. The summer shoot should occur many times, which is beneficial to the expansion of the crown. Each young tree should apply 73 grams of pure nitrogen, 18 grams of phosphorus and 68 grams of potassium per year. It can be seen that to promote the vegetative growth of young trees, the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer should be more, but the application of other major elements should not be ignored in order to make young fruit trees grow normally. The specific methods are as follows: after planting and surviving, the young trees can be fertilized, fertilizing once every 30 to 40 days, mainly water and fertilizer, each plant applying 50 grams of retting water and fertilizer each time. 40 grams of potash fertilizer or 10 kilograms of dung water plus 20 grams of urea are directly applied to the outside of the crown. If dry fertilizer is applied, strip ditches or annular ditches should be dug outside the 20cm of the trunk, spread the fertilizer evenly in the ditch, cover the soil and drench with water.

The burrows of young trees should be kept moist and covered with mountain grass or grass on the stumps to reduce soil moisture evaporation and avoid topsoil consolidation. At the same time, we should pay attention to timely drainage in rainy days to prevent stagnant water from rotting roots.

The root system of seedling protection and shaping young trees is not stable and is easily affected by adverse environment, especially heavy rain and strong wind. The support work should be done before the wind and rain, the tilted plants should be righted in time after the rainstorm, and the injury of large livestock should be avoided at the same time.

Mango trees grow rapidly and have luxuriant branches, which is easy to form a closed crown, which is not conducive to economic cultivation. Therefore, after planting and surviving, proper shaping and pruning should be carried out in order to make the branch distribution reasonable, make the tree body transparent, and form a tree structure with early knot, high yield and stable yield, which is beneficial to the current vegetative growth and the flowering and fruiting in the future. The specific method of trunk shaping of young trees is as follows: in the year of planting, the young trees with few branches will be coring to promote branching when the trunk grows to 60 to 70cm high, so as to promote the crown expansion. A number of new shoots will grow on the trunk soon after coring. According to the principle of "removing the strong, removing the weak and staying in the middle", three evenly distributed new shoots will be left as the main branches, and when the main branches grow to 30 to 40cm, they will be cut again, leaving 2 or 3 new shoots each as the first-class branch. This is done several times to speed up the formation of the crown. The shaping of the crown in the first one or two years after mango planting should be basically completed, and when the fruit is to be hung, three uniform old detached branches can be left on the last shoot as the fruiting mother branch. Young trees are generally only light pruning, mainly to promote the rapid formation of the crown, the removal of disease and insect branches, drooping branches on it.

IV. Management of the result tree

1. Soil management

The root system of mango belongs to mycorrhiza, symbiosis with root fungi and promote each other, while root fungi need more organic matter and permeable soil environment to grow well. Therefore, increasing soil organic matter and improving soil properties have become a key technical link in mango cultivation. In the hot and humid climate of the south, the decomposition of organic matter is fast, and the consumption of soil organic matter is also high. therefore, in addition to increasing the application of farm manure and soil miscellaneous fertilizer to increase the content of soil organic matter, grass cultivation has become an important soil management measure for the cultivation of perennial fruit trees in South China. And it is more and more widely accepted by people, because it is not only conducive to the improvement of plant ecological conditions, but also plays a benign role in soil conservation, water conservation, fertilizer conservation and the increase of soil training organic matter. The specific approach is: do not shovel grass, consciously retain dwarf weeds as vegetation, but those tall, affecting plant lighting, climbing, hindering weeds must still be removed. In winter, a comprehensive garden cleaning should also be carried out to remove weeds so as to reduce the source of insects, the source of disease and the place where diseases and pests survive the winter.

2. Scientific fertilization

Research data from India show that for every 1000 kg of mango harvested, it takes 6 kg of pure nitrogen, 3 kg of phosphorus, 10 kg of potassium, 5.9kg of calcium and 3.6kg of magnesium. This is only part of the result consumption, if you want to meet the needs of its growth and development, then far more than this number. The consumption of nitrogen, potassium and calcium of hanging fruit trees is generally speaking, when fruit trees are fertilized reasonably, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium should be 6 / 4 / 9 / 6 or 6 / 3 / 10 / 6. In production practice, in addition to the above four major elements, Muncha is also sensitive to trace elements such as manganese, boron, magnesium and zinc. If there is a lack of supply of these elements in the soil, physiological diseases will often occur. The fertilization period of mancha fruit trees should be based on physiological phenology.

(1) Zhuanhua fertilizer

Under the application of fertilizer before budding at the end of February and the beginning of March, the purpose of this fertilizer is to improve the nutrition level of trees, promote the development of flowers and ears, enhance the ability of cold resistance and increase the rate of fruit setting. Fertilizer is mainly available nitrogen fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, accounting for about 30% of the total amount of fertilizer applied in the whole year.

(2) Fruit fertilizer

When applied in the small fruit stage after flowering, according to the tree potential and the number of hanging fruits, potash and calcium fertilizers are the main fertilizers, properly combined with nitrogen fertilizers, and the amount of fertilizer applied accounts for 5% to 10% of the whole year. It can also be combined with spraying pesticides with 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate as extra-root topdressing, and boron, magnesium and other trace elements can be added if necessary.

(3) postharvest (pre) fertilizer

The main function is to restore the tree potential quickly after fruit picking, and to promote strong autumn shoots and early winter shoots as the fruiting mother branches of the following year. The time of fertilization depends on mango varieties and fertilizer varieties. Early-maturing varieties can apply quick-acting fertilizers in time after picking, while late-maturing varieties should apply either quick-acting fertilizers or late-acting organic fertilizers before picking. It is required that the application should be completed by late August to ensure that the first autumn shoot can be produced in the first and middle of September. This time, the fertilizer is mainly organic fertilizer, combined with potash fertilizer, phosphate fertilizer and some available nitrogen fertilizer, accounting for more than 50% of the whole year.

(4) overwintering fertilizer

It was applied in the middle and last ten days of November to promote the rapid ripening of early winter shoots and conducive to flower bud differentiation. At the same time, it can increase the concentration of sap, enhance the ability of cold resistance, and partly provide the nutrient supply at the flowering stage of the next year. This time, the fertilizer is mainly slow-acting organic fertilizer, which can also be combined with winter pond cleaning, fertilization pond mud or other guest soil, accounting for 10% of the whole year.

3. Rational drainage and irrigation

Mango has different requirements for water in different growth stages, and the key period for water demand is in the fruit expansion period and autumn shoot emergence period. During the period of small fruit expansion, the rainfall in South China is more abundant in general years, and there is no need for irrigation. However, in the middle stage of fruit development, it often leads to fruit cracking and fruit drop due to high temperature and showers. During this period, we should pay attention to proper irrigation and keep it moist, so as to prevent yield loss due to dryness and wetness of the soil. A relatively dry environment is needed from the late stage of fruit development to before harvest, which is beneficial to improve the quality and commercial value of the fruit. The weather of drought and little rain often occurs in late summer and early autumn in South China, the temperature is high, the transpiration is large, and the humidity of soil and air is relatively low. at this time, it is the critical period for postharvest pruning and shoots pruning, and enough moisture should be kept in the soil. in order to promote the sprouting of autumn buds and the needs of neat emergence and robust growth and development of autumn shoots, irrigation should be carried out to keep the soil moist. When the last shoot begins to mature, irrigation should be stopped. This moderate drought can make the shoot stop growing in time, accumulate photosynthetic nutrients, increase the concentration of cell sap, and be beneficial to flower bud differentiation. However, excessive drought at this time will lead to early flowering, poor flower quality, low ratio of bisexual flowers and poor fruit setting. Therefore, in case of drought in winter and spring, appropriate irrigation is still needed, and thin water can be irrigated every 15 to 20 days to make the tree plate soil slightly wet.

4. Moderate pruning

Mango is a kind of fruit tree that is resistant to pruning. The pruning method and intensity of mango fruit tree should be different according to variety, tree age, tree potential, planting density, site condition and management level of peaceful coexistence, for example, through pruning, the loose tree shape of Gui Xiang mango can be compacted, so that the branches with dense purple flowers can be reasonably extended. According to the time, mango tree pruning can be divided into spring pruning and autumn pruning.

(1) Spring pruning

In order to adjust the balance between vegetative growth and reproductive growth, balance production and improve fruit quality, the number of flowers and ears should be controlled. Thinning flowers during the period from heading to flowering, thinning too many spikes, generally making the spikes on the last shoots account for 70%, and the remaining 30% should be made to produce spring shoots to ensure a certain amount of vegetative growth. If the spike is too long, some of the florets should be removed and the number of flowers from 1 to 2 should be enough. If there are too many fruits in the young fruit stage, part of the small fruits should be thinned out as soon as possible, leaving only 5 to 6 well-developed fruits per panicle for observation, so as to decide whether to stay or not when they are a little older in the future. At the same time, the empty flower branches and diseased branches should be cut off in time to prevent the collision and friction between the fruit and it and affect the appearance of the fruit.

The young fruit-bearing trees with less fruit tend to produce summer shoots, and the competition for nutrients will cause a large number of fruit drop, which will seriously affect the already small fruit yield. Therefore, in order to ensure the normal development of the fruit, the summer shoot should be sprouted from 3 to 5cm.

(2) Autumn pruning

The autumn pruning of mango is usually carried out after harvest, so it is also called postharvest pruning. This pruning can promote the emergence of autumn shoots. It is required to cultivate at least two autumn shoots after fruit harvest, and the last shoot should be no later than the first ten days of November. therefore, autumn pruning should be completed by the end of August and the beginning of September.

The objects of pruning are dense branches, canopy closed branches, redundant branches, disorderly branches, drooping branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, disease and insect branches and so on. The method of pruning is to first remove the overdense main branches, adjust the position and number of the backbone branches, and then cut off the above-mentioned branches, retract and truncate the long branches according to different varieties and requirements for the shape of the tree. and cut the residual branches that have borne fruit in the periphery and cut short at the lower dense node. Muncha's pruning principle is: "stereotyped according to the tree, suppressed up and down, loose and balanced, heavy at the top and light at the bottom." Results in autumn pruning, attention should be paid to the re-application of fertilizer before and after pruning to ensure the supply of inorganic nutrients for vegetative growth, quickly restore tree potential and physiological function, accumulate nutrients for flower bud differentiation, and lay a foundation for production in the coming year. At the same time, in the process of pruning, except for the need for tree renewal, general pruning should not be too heavy.

5. Controlling flowers and thinning fruits

Appropriate measures should be taken to control flowering and postpone flowering in order to avoid the influence of adverse weather. For some varieties that have the habit of blooming many times, the method of removing inflorescence can be adopted. In general, the terminal inflorescence is removed and the lateral buds are redifferentiated into flower buds, which can delay the flowering period by about 1 month. The method is to erase the early flower ear from the base and let it reproduce the flower ear in the lateral position of the base. If the primary flower spike is produced too early, it can also be cut short from several buds below the flower spike of the basal branch to promote the lateral bud to produce flower bud again. The bud should be wiped off in time before the bud extends to 7cm, otherwise too much nutrients will be consumed, the flower quality of the regenerated flower ear will become weaker, and the fruit setting and fruit quality will be affected. If the temperature is high after erasing the spike, and the spike can grow quickly, the newly extracted spike can be wiped off again and can generally be daubed 2 to 3 times in a row. Florets produced in and after mid-February can bloom in late March and early and mid-April, when the temperature is the most suitable for mango pollination and fruit setting. Therefore, flower control by wiping buds should be stopped after mid-February.

For plants that do not bloom due to excessive vegetative growth or other reasons, physical or chemical measures can be taken to stop shoot growth in time, accumulate sufficient photosynthetic nutrients, and promote flower bud differentiation and flowering.

① ploughed the soil deeply in the dry season in late November and cut off part of the lateral roots. When the leaves are exposed to yellow and green, combined with the application of organic fertilizer to cover the soil, this work should be completed before Greater Cold to the Beginning of Spring. The ring ligation technique can also be used (Lesser Cold tied the first branch with No. 16 wire, tightened it deep into the skin with iron pliers, and untied it after flowering).

② uses plant growth regulators. Plant growth regulators are mainly used to control vegetative growth, promote flower bud differentiation, flowering, flower promotion, fruit protection, overcome annual fruit, and so on. The same drug showed different physiological responses due to different fertilization periods and concentrations. Before using the drug, it is necessary to understand the nature, concentration and use time of the drug. At present, paclobutrazol, a plant growth retarder with low toxicity and obvious effect, is widely used. The absorption site is mainly xylem, and the effect of leaf spraying is poor. The application depends on the tree. 5-year-old trees generally apply 7 to 30 grams (commercial quantity, effective ingredient is 15%), and those with large crown can apply 20 to 40 grams, and vice versa. The amount of medicine used to promote anti-flower production is larger, and that of positive flower formation can be less. During the application, a shallow ditch about 10cm was opened under the crown, applied evenly and covered with soil, and the soil should be kept moist within half a month, and it would take 2 months to take effect after application. However, the effects of different varieties are different. Out-of-season cultivation should be applied around March, and positive flowering can be applied in January. Paclobutrazol has the phenomenon of early flowering, and it is best to determine the application time according to the winter weather forecast. This drug has a long residual period and can not be used year after year, otherwise it will affect the growth of trees, and weak trees are not suitable for use.

After flowering, the young fruit expands rapidly, and late inflorescences and empty flower branches should be cut off in order to concentrate nutrients to supply the growth and development of the small fruit. Fruit thinning can be carried out after the second physiological fruit drop in late May. The purpose of fruit thinning is to protect fruit, because mango blossoms a lot, and if the weather is suitable, there are often a lot of small fruits hanging in one ear. Although most of the small fruits drop naturally, some ears still have a number of small fruits, competing with each other for nutrients, so that nutrients are dispersed, affecting fruit development and commercial value. In general, it is enough for high-yielding trees to leave only one fruit per panicle. if the tree with large crown and low amount of fruit is hung, individual ears can retain two small fruits. The principle of fruit thinning is to keep strong and weak, good and evil (diseases, insects and deformities). When thinning fruit, the small fruit should be cut off together with the fruit stalk.

6. Bagging to protect fruit

In early June, when the fruit grows to the size of an egg, bagging should be carried out to protect the fruit. Bagging fruit protection is one of the important links in mango health cultivation. It can prevent pest damage, reduce disease infection, reduce mechanical damage, improve fruit quality, reduce the number of flower spraying, reduce pesticide residue pollution and so on.

The most economical thing about bagging materials is the use of waste newspapers. Waste newspapers have strong water permeability and air permeability, will not stick to the pericarp after water is wet, dry quickly, not easy to mildew, and easy to take materials, low cost and good effect. A four-page waste newspaper can be folded into six paper bags of the same size, sewn and nailed with staples. The so-called "four-nail method", that is, one nail is used in the neck, and two nails are used on the side. After putting on the fruit, the mouth of the bag is folded and fixed with one nail.

Bagging should take a spray to prevent disease, it should be the tree that was sprayed on the same day, and the bagging was finished on the same day to prevent the bacteria from infecting again.

5. Management technical measures of mango after frost

Pruning and other remedial measures can be adopted for mango trees that have been frozen. Pruning is divided into two stages, the first period is to cut off the dried branches 5 to 7 days after frost injury, in order to prevent the dry branches from pumping water and cause the healthy branches to lose water, and the second period is to prune again from the end of January to the first ten days of February to the connection between the frozen branches and the healthy branches. In addition, because the frost injury is accompanied by glue flow at the same time, it is necessary to first remove the glue or remove the cracked bark, and then apply Bordeaux pulp and prepare it at the ratio of 1:5:40 (cupric sulfate: lime: water). If there are conditions for irrigation, appropriate irrigation or watering. After two pruning, some fertilizers combined with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium were added as extra-root topdressing. The undamaged part of the old leaves of the old tree (that is, the green leaves) are sprayed with 0.3% to 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate at a time.

The remedial measures of seedlings are similar to those of big trees, but we should pay attention to irrigation. Those who have conditions or can create conditions should be irrigated. If the dry part is less than the graft joint, the scion should be left as much as possible when pruning to grow new shoots. The ungrafted seedlings are not grafted until they are re-germinated.

 
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