Specific methods of pruning and carving buds and corners of apple trees for one to three years

The method of pruning in the first year is to dry the full buds of young trees where the 90cm is about, and then pick out the coring in summer. The pruning method of the second year: heavy truncation of the main branches in winter, sprouting in spring, coring of competitive branches in summer, and corners of other branches in autumn. The pruning method of the third year is similar to that of the second year in winter, spring and autumn. In summer, the new shoots should be removed, the top shoots should be coring or truncated, and the slow-release branches should be peeled around.

One to three-year-old apple trees belong to young apple trees. The purpose of pruning during this period is to cultivate the shape of the tree, complete the basic selection of backbone branches, and create a good tree skeleton.

First year pruning

1. Fixed drying: cut and dry at the place where the full buds of the apple tree are evenly high and about 90cm.

2. Summer pruning: from mid to late May, when the new lateral shoots of apple trees grow to about 20cm, it is necessary to coring apple trees, as well as competitive branches when they reach 10cm, so as to ensure that the central shoots can thrive.

Second, pruning in the second year

For young apple trees that have been planted for 1-2 years, or young trees with weak growth and low branch yield, it is necessary to combine medium and short truncation with heavy truncation, so as to cut off half or more of the length of the branches, increase the number of branches and enhance the tree strength.

1. Winter pruning: first, the upright and prosperous branches should be selected as the central leading branch, and about 1 meter should be set aside at the full bud for pruning. The branches next to other main branches should be heavily truncated according to the actual situation, or 2-3 blighted buds should be kept at the base for short cutting or cut into horseshoe shape. If the branches are not well positioned, they should be cut off thoroughly from the base.

2. Spring pruning: in late March or early April, it is necessary to start with the seventh bud of the cutting mouth of the central leading branch and carve a bud every 6 buds to the top of the trunk, mainly in order to produce backbone branches.

3. Summer pruning: in addition to the branches that need to be kept as backbone branches, other competitive branches should be removed as soon as possible, dense branches should be removed as early as possible, and redundant branches should be properly removed.

4. Autumn pruning: in August and September, competitive branches and dense but useless branches should be removed. Except for the central leading branch, all other branches should be pulled at an angle of about 70 °- 80 °. This method is suitable for spindle pruning of dwarfing rootstocks and young apple trees of short branch varieties.

Third, third year pruning

1. Winter pruning: first, the upright and vigorous branches should be selected as the central leading branches, leaving about 1 meter at the full buds for pruning, while the rest of the backbone branches and the auxiliary branches between the main branches will not be pruned to allow them to grow naturally, but individual weak main branches should be cut at the full buds.

2, spring pruning: mainly to carve buds, the seventh bud of the central leading branch cut starts, one bud is engraved every 6 buds, all the way to the top of the trunk, the slow-release backbone branches and the rest of the branches are carved on both sides and behind every 4 buds, slightly heavier in the place with blighted buds, but not in the 25cm or so of the part and the 20cm of the base.

3. Summer pruning

The main results are as follows: (1) remove the dense but useless new shoots in the apple canopy and the outer many new shoots.

(2) the strong shoots on the competitive branch and on the back of the main branch should be coring or truncated.

(3) in late May, according to the strength of the tree, the slow-setting branches that are sprouting should be girdled or cut at the base of the 10cm, and be careful not to girdle the trunk.

4. Autumn pruning: in August and September in late summer and early autumn, competitive branches and dense but useless branches are removed. Except for the central leading branch, all other branches should be pulled at an angle of about 70 °- 80 °. If there are upright and strong shoots on the back of the main branch, they should be reduced and removed.