Cherry grafting method

The tree species of cherry can be grafted with plum tree or hairy peach tree, the thickness of the rootstock should be more than 0.7cm, and annual branches can be used for scion. When grafting, cut the long oval surface of 2.5cm and 2mm with a knife at the base of the rootstock 10cm from the ground, then cut the bud piece from the scion 1.5cm below the grafting bud, and grow into 2.5cm and 2cm long oval bud piece. Stick the sprouts on the cut noodles and tie them with plastic tape.

First, the method of cherry grafting

The main results are as follows: 1. Plum tree and peach tree can be used for grafting. The thickness of rootstock needs to be above 0.7cm when grafting, and one-year-old branches need to be collected for scion. Full buds can be used as grafting buds.

2. When grafting, the smooth part can be selected at the base of the rootstock about 10cm from the ground, and along the vertical direction, the long oval cutting surface will grow into 2.5cm or so, and the depth will be 2mm or so.

3. When cutting the buds, you can cut the 1.5cm below the buds, then gently cut the buds off the scion and grow into 2.5cm, a long oval bud with a thickness of about 2mm.

4. Stick the bud piece on the cutting surface of the rootstock, and finally tie it up with plastic film tape.

Matters needing attention after grafting of cherries

1. Untie in time

If there is rain or watering after cherry grafting, it is easy to cause glue flow and reduce its survival rate, so it is not suitable to be watered within 15 days after grafting, and the seedlings need to be untied in time after survival. Rain Water is prevented from seeping into the trunk cortex along the binding and causing glue flow.

2. Anti-folding of binding tips

The grafted buds will grow faster after germination, because the wood is relatively soft, which can easily lead to bending or wind fracture, so when the grafted buds grow to 20-30cm, it is necessary to build a scaffold in time to fix the new shoots on the scaffolds to avoid being broken by the wind.

3. Timely cutting anvil

For the surviving budding seedlings to be cut, generally you can choose to cut the rootstock before the bud turns green, if the cutting time is too early, it is easy to cause the rootstock to drain dry, and cause budding death, during which you can use scissors to cut off the rootstock seedlings at about 1cm on the bud, while the side of the bud needs to be slightly higher when cutting the rootstock, and the back side of the bud needs to be slightly lower to form a slope, which is conducive to wound healing.

4. Wipe the buds and pick the heart

During this period, it is necessary to constantly erase the new buds growing on the rootstock seedlings, and at the same time strengthen the management work to promote the strong growth of grafted seedlings. When the grafted seedlings grow to 30-40cm, they need to be heart-picked to promote the lower growth of new branches. In the first and middle of July, the over-growing branches can be coring again, which is helpful to increase the number of branches and promote the seedlings to bear fruit earlier.

5. Fertilizer and water management

After the grafted seedlings sprout, the management of fertilizer and water should be strengthened. during this period, water can be irrigated every 20 days or so, and appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer can be applied at the same time. The first time can choose to apply 5-10 kg urea per mu in mid-May, and the second time can choose in mid-July. About 15 kg of diammonium phosphate can be applied per mu, and fertilizer and water should be properly controlled in the later stage to ensure the maturity of seedlings and enhance their overwintering ability.

6. Control of diseases and insect pests

After sprouting in spring, the small gray weevil should be controlled in time, and the pear heart borer should be controlled in time after the coring seedlings germinated. 250 times of Bordeaux solution can be sprayed twice from early July to early August, which can effectively prevent early defoliation.